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Qual Wall
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Crack left of Leftwing 
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Jay Butt Dialed Me Today 
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Long Time Coming 
More Choss Than Moss 
Nordwand, The 
Now or Never 
Nut Job 
Pocket Warmup 
Purple Jeep 
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Secret Agent Man 
Top Rope Hero 
Unknown / "Meaner than Green" 
Unlisted Number 
Warm Up 1 
Warm Up 2 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown / "Meaner than Green" 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Schmitt/Sepsen
Page Views: 1,546
Submitted By: Eddie Avallone on May 24, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: This climb goes up face and takes the variation to...

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Description 

The first route encountered when arriving at the Qual Wall from the Horse trail.

Follows a line of bolts up the face and takes the rightward line when bolts split at halfway. Continue up to the sweeping headwall for the bouldery crux.


Location 

First route, take right variation.


Protection 

Lots of bolts, bring 10-12 draws.



Photos of Unknown / "Meaner than Green" Slideshow Add Photo
Flavio pulling the crux move in 2010.
Flavio pulling the crux move in 2010.
Comments on Unknown / "Meaner than Green" Add Comment
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By Eddie Avallone
From: Lewisburg, WV
May 24, 2007

Did this route today. Don't know anything about the left branch of the bolts, but it looks to be easier than this route, maybe easy 11?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 25, 2007

The route to the left is probably a hard 11. It's deceptively difficult in the crux.

By Dobbe
Jul 24, 2007

I spent a lot of energy trying to onsight this climbing up then down at the crux but pumped out. I think it's a super good route long and fun lots of draws 13 with the top.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Feb 14, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

Ha, yeah Dobbe I had a similar experience. SteveZ and I were there for one last day of climbing in late November 08 at 33F and overcast. Spent a lot of time up and downclimbing from the jug right before the crux, each time trying to thaw my frozen, amazingly painful fingers on my neck, with less and less success each time. After the pain was completely unbearable, I yelled "take" (among other expletives) and got like 5% feeling back, pulled the crux, finished, rapped, and swore never to rope up below 45 Fahrenheit again. Can't wait until April to put this climb to rest.

AKA "Meaner than Green".

By Tradoholic
Jun 26, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Huston calls this "Meaner than Green" in his topo found here: documents.scribd.com/docs/1i25x7felmh3df16lh5a.pdf

By Tradoholic
Mar 7, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

This was equally as fun as the 11 to the left. I think it is a reachy 11d or 12b for those under 5'11".

I installed steel perma-biners on the chains for the ease of future generations.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 30, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

This is an excellent route! Climb this several times and you would be in great shape for the Red.