University Wall  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Elevation:  6,300' Page Views:  1,532. Good page? (1 like)    Administrators:  Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Dec 22, 2010 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Private Property MORE INFO >>> This cliff sits on private property. The crag was "closed" by the land owner at one time, but the land has since changed hands. The current land owner's view on climbing access is unknown. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

The Pumping Wall:

Purple: Sorority Girls...

Description 

This proud cliff was once a prime destination for Shelf's top climbers, hosting an astounding collection of stellar lines. Development began here in the summer of 1987, and culminated in Darryl Roth's historic 1989 ascent of The Skinwalker, at the time Shelf's hardest free climb. An unfortunate indiscretion by a visiting climber caused the local land owner to close access to the crag, and as a result, these brilliant climbs have tragically drifted into obscurity.

Though the crag only features a modest number of routes, the harder lines are among the very highest quality routes of their grade's at Shelf. Of particular interest is Roth's masterpiece, which rivals The Example for the title of Shelf's best 5.13, and would warrant classic status at any climbing area in the country. Other stellar routes include Le Pumping Bull, The Sabbatical, Critical Mass, and Mr. Toad's Wild Ride. The mid-level routes here are not exceptional and probaby not worth the grueling, 45-minute approach and mandatory river crossings. Most do not have anchors, feature impressive runouts, and require supplemental trad gear.

Routes L--> R: 

1. Unknown #1 5.10?, bolts to chain anchor
2. Unknown #2 5.10?, bolts to chain anchor

Break

3. Bad Intuition, 5.10c? bolts & gear, no anchor?

Break

4. Room With a View, 5.11a, 3 bolts, no anchor
5. Crowded House, 5.12a, bolts, no anchor? Begins on ledge directly above #4
6. Sorority Girls, 5.11+, bolts & gear, no anchor?
7. The Sabbatical, 5.12d?, 5 bolts, lower from last bolt (beefy cold shut)
8. Le Pumping Bull, 5.12b, 9 bolts, no anchor (or 8 bolts, finish on #9's anchor)
9. The Skinwalker, 5.13b, 8 cold shuts, 2 bolt anchor

Break

10. Unknown #3 5.11/12?, red bolts, 2 bolt anchor (2nd chain anchor 40' above 1st anchor)
11. White Punks on Rope, 5.10c, bolts & gear, no anchor (move left to #10's 2nd anchor)

Break

12. Pocket Rocket, 5.11+?, gear & 3 bolts?, no anchor?
13. Critical Mass, 5.13a?, 9 bolts, no anchor?

Break

14. Mr. Toad's Wild Ride, 5.12-?, 6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor?
15. One Tree Hill, 5.12-?, 5 bolts?, no anchor? (use #14's anchor?)

Break

16. Unknown #4, 5.8/9?, 5 bolts to chain anchor (on east face of large boulder below #15)

Break

17. Que Sera Sera, 5.12-?, 4 bolts & gear? no anchor?

Additional Resources 

This crag was included in Mark Van Horn's 1990 Shelf Road Rock Guide. Copies are currently available from Chessler, the Denver Public Library or CSprings Public Library. This book is still impressively accurate despite its age. PM for additional information.

The Classics

Featured Route For University Wall

Critical Mass 5.13a  CO : Shelf Road : University Wall

Perhaps Shelf's first 5.13 lead, Critical Mass climbs an amazing, bulging buttress of exquisite, bullet limestone. The business comes quick with a brutal "B2" boulder problem on poor crimps to reach a sinker 2-finger pocket at the first bolt. The crux ends with a big move to reach a large, flat edge at the 2nd bolt. The angle relents as the line moves left, into a scoop, past a bit of a runout to reach the third bolt. More featured black stone leads to a sloping ledge with a small dead tree ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of University Wall Slideshow

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"Unknown #4".

"Mr. Toad's Wild Ride" (L) & "One Tree Hill" (R).