Could this be the best 'burly' route in Squamish? Steep, physical crack climbing from the word go, with no warm up. Amazing and exposed positions, great protection (on the cruxes), what more could you ask for?
p1. The rudest warm up I know of. 12a for about 65'. clip the ancient fixed purple TCU and punch it through some steep easy moves to a ledge. Move into the left facing corner and deal with the usual wetness. Even in the driest, most drought stricken summers, I have NEVER seen this pitch dry. Pull a wet lock or two and make your way to the base of the evil overhanging slot. Grovel your way to the chains.
p2. 12-, 70'. Big fingers in the corner leads to an undercling out left. Going straight up is the Shadow, maybe the best pitch in Squamish? (12d+). Get creative and grovel to the chains.
p3. 11+ 40'. If you hit everything right I guess its only 11+, BUT on the OS, expect it to feel harder. Fingers in a wide chimney/slot over a roof to a great ledge.
p4. 5.11-, 100'. Great fingers in a corner, either go left on some under clings or straight up to a roof and underclings, a few fixed pins. Both ways are 11-, and I don't think either one is better or easier, having done both.
p5. 10+ 100'. From the comfy tree belay pull past a wide slot to some amazing steep fingers.
p6. real 5.11 (maybe R?) 100'. Get your stem on and bust out your RPs and small nuts. Finesse your way to some fixed gear and go straight left on the finger tip traverse with no gear. Don't fall, then get some gear in and climb the amazingly thin and hollow flake - I am 190lbs and it has held me a half a dozen times so pull away! Clip a bolt and do a weird mystery slab move and traverse back right to the corner, and climb it to the comfy belay ledge. Going straight up is the Shadow variation, 12-, RPs.
p7. 10+ 70'. All fixed pins and bolts, traverses right a bunch, short crux.
p8. 11+ 80'. THE sting in the tail. Hard and spicey. Pull a hard slab/mantel move off the belay, go to the head wall and traverse left to the new free bolt. Clip it and balance your way up the wall to grab the ledge. Hand traverse till you get to the fixed knifeblade tips traverse and punch it. Pull on to an easy ledge and don't slip on the pine needles. Watch for heinous rope drag and belay in the trees.
You can continue straight up from here on the Roman Chimneys or walk off belly good ledge.
Continue past the base of the Grand Wall as for Seasoned in the Sun. Keep going for about 2 minutes until you see the bushy ramp that cuts back right and up via a few fixed lines to the obvious STEEP and clean U-wall. A fixed line is in place for the exposed traverse to the start. A belay seat is a good idea for P1 and P2 (top of) belays.
2 sets of gear from micro to Green camalot. maybe one or two extra finger pieces. One each Red, gold, blue and big gray camalot. RPS and nuts, slings and draws. All anchors are bolted, and retreat would be easy from any pitch with 2 ropes through the top of pitch 6.
Phil goes to school at University Wall
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 7, 2009
Great contribution Evan! I can only dream about this one.
By Jesse Huey
Jul 26, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
The PERFECT rack for the UWall, as I get asked quite often on this one:
Good set of Nuts with Brass Nuts to the Green HB
1 Purple TCU or equivelent
3 Green Aliens or equivelent
2 Yellow Aliens or Equivelent
1 Grey alien or Equivelent
2 Purple Camalots
1 Green Camalot
1 #3 Camalot
That is it, NO RED OR GOLDS and that is not a sandbag!
13 sling/draws are perfect and necessary for pitch 6.
By john averette
Aug 1, 2010
as a diminuitive and frightened east-coast guy, i confirm that jesse's gear beta is, indeed, ironclad--the only piece he forgot to mention was the ipod with the harness speakers...
By Evan Stevens
Aug 13, 2010
I call sandbag! Huey, you punk...people who don't have this thing dialed like you, will want an extra green camalot maybe for the start of the second pitch, and it can be used at the end. I have definitely used a red and a gold, but only 1 of each, lots of places for them to fit (p.1, p.2 end, p.4).
By Ross Morgan
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 7, 2014
There are currently wooden ledges hanging at the belays atop P1 and P2