Universal Socket (aka The Pocket Problem)
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Begin by traversing a horizontal crack system to gain a series of good, incut monos (or two-finger pockets). Yard up on these odd holds, taking care to use the right sequence. Make a long, committing move to the left arete on a rounded sloping hold. Then make another big move way off the deck to the positive holds at the top. There could be cosequences to a fall here. Mantle.
Underneath some bolted route, by a cave on a hill of Devil's Den
|Photos of Universal Socket (aka The Pocket Problem) Slideshow
the pocket problem
such a cool looking problem
|Comments on Universal Socket (aka The Pocket Problem)
From: Portland, ME
Mar 24, 2010
rating: V5 6c
Nice problem. The pockets are definitely not monos, and one of them is more like a crimp than a pocket, but they're still cool and unusual features (especially for NE granite). There are also decent holds on the arete below the key spot. Most of the difficulty of the problems lies in committing to the last move.
|By Christian Prellwitz|
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 16, 2013
rating: V6+ 7a
While the committing last move is definitely the mental crux, this problem is still physically challenging and definitely deserving of the v6 grade (on the harder side in my opinion). It climbs more like a route, with no real defined crux, but lots of sustained difficulty.
Either way, it's an excellent climb and worth doing if you can confidently climb that grade.
Footage of this problem begins at 0:10