Universal Crag Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...
This is one of the steeper walls in Dream Canyon. Seven routes grace this crag two of witch are projects. 5.11 is the easiest climb then mid 5.12 then .13+. All are relatively short compared to the other Dream routes so all you need is one rope and about 12 draws.
A. X Marks The Start
, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Palm Pilot
, 13+, 1p, 40' bolts.
C. Fighting Irish
, 12+, 1p, 40', gear.
D. Summarete, 13?, 1p, bolts.
E. Dream Machine
, 12, 1p, 75', bolts.
, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
, 11-, 1p, gear.
H. Magna Headwall
, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. Cum Laude Overhang, 12, 1p, bolts.
J. Temptress, 9, 1p, gear.
This crag is downriver and across the river from "Lost Angel". When the river is high there is a wood bridge you can cross at the downriver end of the Lost Angel crag. Alternatively if the river is low you can rock hop across the river. Semi-hidden from Lost Angel this little crag is only a 5 minute downriver hike once you cross the wood bridge. Morning_early afternoon sun.
Climbing Season For the Upper Dream Canyon area.
Weather station 5.1 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Universal Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Universal Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Universal Crag:
Equator 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Universal Crag
Fighting Irish 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b CO
: ... : Universal Crag
This pitch is one route right of Palm Pilot. A bloody powerful punch in under 15 moves. Ascend a 25 foot slab to get to the real climbing. Clip a couple of directional bolts to keep the rope out of your way then head up the dihedral. Sidepull and stem your way up for four bolts to the anchors. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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Universal Crag: Photo: Bob Horan.