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Universal Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dozey Brat 
Dr. West, Millionaire 
Dream Machine 
Equator 
Fighting Irish 
Magna Headwall 
Palm Pilot 
Rapid Eye Movement 
Switchback  
X Marks The Start 
Unsorted Routes:

Universal Crag 


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Page Views: 3,221
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jim Redo on Oct 29, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon

Modified from origin...

Description 

This is one of the steeper walls in Dream Canyon. Seven routes grace this crag two of witch are projects. 5.11 is the easiest climb then mid 5.12 then .13+. All are relatively short compared to the other Dream routes so all you need is one rope and about 12 draws.

L->R:

A. X Marks The Start, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Palm Pilot, 13+, 1p, 40' bolts.
C. Fighting Irish, 12+, 1p, 40', gear.
D. Summarete, 13?, 1p, bolts.
E. Dream Machine, 12, 1p, 75', bolts.
F. Equator, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
G. Switchback , 11-, 1p, gear.
H. Magna Headwall, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. Cum Laude Overhang, 12, 1p, bolts.
J. Temptress, 9, 1p, gear.


Getting There 

This crag is downriver and across the river from "Lost Angel". When the river is high there is a wood bridge you can cross at the downriver end of the Lost Angel crag. Alternatively if the river is low you can rock hop across the river. Semi-hidden from Lost Angel this little crag is only a 5 minute downriver hike once you cross the wood bridge. Morning_early afternoon sun.


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Universal Crag
In the crux of Equator, photo: Bob Horan Collection.

Equator 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c  CO : Boulder : ... : Universal Crag
Climb the prominent, leaning, crack system right of Dream Machine, left of the Magna Headwall. Climb up from the pillar, up and right following the obtuse dihedral and crack, turn the bulge, reaching and surmounting out left to the two bolt anchor. It has 8 bolts....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Universal Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Universal Crag: Photo: Bob Horan.
Universal Crag: Photo: Bob Horan.
The Universal Crag.
The Universal Crag.
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