BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...
This is one of the steeper walls in Dream Canyon. Seven routes grace this crag two of witch are projects. 5.11 is the easiest climb then mid 5.12 then .13+. All are relatively short compared to the other Dream routes so all you need is one rope and about 12 draws.
A. X Marks The Start
, 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Palm Pilot
, 13+, 1p, 40' bolts.
C. Fighting Irish
, 12+, 1p, 40', gear.
D. Summarete, 13?, 1p, bolts.
E. Dream Machine
, 12, 1p, 75', bolts.
, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
, 11-, 1p, gear.
H. Magna Headwall
, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. Cum Laude Overhang, 12, 1p, bolts.
J. Temptress, 9, 1p, gear.
This crag is downriver and across the river from "Lost Angel". When the river is high there is a wood bridge you can cross at the downriver end of the Lost Angel crag. Alternatively if the river is low you can rock hop across the river. Semi-hidden from Lost Angel this little crag is only a 5 minute downriver hike once you cross the wood bridge. Morning_early afternoon sun.
Weather station 5.1 miles from here
10 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Universal Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Universal Crag:
Equator 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Universal Crag
Palm Pilot 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a CO
: ... : Universal Crag
First of all, let me say that I did not chip this route. I did not equip this route. It was an open project, and I just free climbed this route. I re-named the route to "Palm Pilot" from "Victoria's Secret". It ain't no secret, boys, ya chipped a hold. This route is on the far left side of the crag left of an open corner. It is an extremely overhanging arete.Scramble up a 3rd class slab for 30 feet to the first bolt. Clip another bolt and move out left to a ledge where you can sit. The climbing ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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Universal Crag: Photo: Bob Horan.