Universal Conflicts
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 1.3 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Roy Suggett, Gene Vallee, and Andy Ross |
Page Views: | 663 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Roy Suggett on Aug 30, 2015 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
The crux is in my head. I am conflicted about this route. The first 2/3s of this trad line are three plus stars...the last third will make you ponder the truths of the universe. So perhaps the anchor should be moved down 15 ft.? The crack takes gear well and the liebacking is epic. Then you turn the small roof and see sketchy rock. So I put a bolt in here to give courage. If you want to add a bolt here and make it an anchor...be my quest...or thrash on with your belayer well out of range (we tried to clean, pry, and scrub but the blocks look so tenuous and yet refused to budge).
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