This is an amazing route; it goes right the widest crack/chimney on the face. It is a very challenging and difficult route but one of the most fun routes I have ever climbed. You will use just about every climbing move that you know. There are actually 3 crux on this route. The cruxes are at the overhangs. The "crux" is at the giant block/chockstone in the middle. The only thing that I disliked about the route was that it was extremely dirty, a few times I had dirt fly into my eyes. Th...[more]Browse More Classics in International
Above is the link to the guide books web site for climbing in this area. I recommend that anyone who climbs out here purchase a copy. It is a good guide with good directions to the areas, however it leaves a lot of info out. For further information, topo's a list of FA's please see the website posted above.
Are few other good links are the also posted below.
Also if you are climbing here please add any info to these areas.
Almost everything added for this country (UAE) by the user, Brian Coones, has been plagiarised from my print guidebook, "UAE Rock Climbing" (www.cordee.co.uk/cca395.php). Chapters, crags, crag sectors and routes are laid out exactly as in the book. The user has only been in the country for three months and had been witnessed failing on 5.9, so there is no possibility that he is in a position to comment on the majority of the routes he has updated. I have made a copyright abuse complaint to mountainproject.com and hope that will be addressed by having the unoriginal material removed. Until then please be aware that copyright theft has occurred and that this user, Brian Coones, is a plagiarist and NOT a trustworthy authority on climbing in this area.
As the distributor and main funder of the UAE Climbing guide, I confirm what Red Armada has said above. There is blatant theft of copyright material from the guide book as well as a significant amount of material from other copyrighted sources that has not been attributed and unlikely to have the owners permission for publication here.
As an absolutely unexperienced climber, who has been living in the UAE for 5 years and have never heard of the possibility, nor did I ever come accross the guidebook for UAE climbing - I am glad that someone has pointed me to the direction of THE guiedbook written by Red Armada and the updates(www.redarmadapublishing.com/updates.php) that have been also posted by Brian Coones on MP.com on numerous occasions.
There is a great number of climbing sites within the UAE that has not been known by outsiders - neither has been any activity coming out of this end of the world on MP.com before Brian Coones started to talk about the area and The Guidbook; and praised and thanked all those who have contributed to such material. According to what I have been reading, he has given a great amound of recognition and appreciation to Red Armada.
I do not see how an open and free marketing of your product on an international website can either damage your reputation or have a possible loss of income of the increase of sales of Red Armada's guidbook. As I see it, the publicity is only to Red Armada's benefit, not Brian's.
People living in and outside of the UAE are now aware of the fact that there is an awailable/legitamate source of information for climbing enthusiasts. And isn't that what the book has been written for?
who has been living in the UAE for 5 years and have never heard of the possibility
I find this kind of odd if you type uae climbing into any search engine the first three site listed are for our forum after thats its for golbal climbing and then the reda armad publishing. We Have also over the years had articles published in Gulf news, seven days, the national, and time out magazine, The offroad explorer book also indicates where the climbing locations are for wadi bih and wonderwall. There have been television documnetaries for some german channels and also a feature in "this is dubai". There is some info and direction to get more at rockclimbing.com. Both the wafi climbing and the trade centre wall have adds in time out dubai. I got here ten years ago and it took me two weeks to find the climbing. I dont think you where looking hard enough.
I find it difficult to believe that despite your claim to have been in the Emirates for 5 years that you have been unable to find any information pertaining to UAE climbing. A simple internet search would have taken you straight to the active UAE climbing forum.
As far back as 1997 there was a 5 page spread in one of the major international climbing magazines (Mountain Magazine - published in the UK)
I was author of the original CD guide before 'passing the baton' on to Red Armada publishing, and was responsible for discovering many of the locations at a time when the likes of maps, satellite imagery and GPS were not available. Many hours were spent driving and walking into obscure areas with little success - other than being able to tell people not to bother looking there again!
I tried unsuccessfully for a number of years to get my guide published, and put a lot of effort in via various climbing forums in trying to raise the Profile of UAE Climbing. Sadly I left the area in 2000, and in 2003 decided to make all of the information I'd gathered available on a CD in pdf format. Somewhere in the region of 100 CD's were produced prior to transferring rights to the text and images to Red Armada.
For a number of years, Global Climbing of RAK distributed the original CD guide and it was on sale in outlets such as Picnico in Dubai.
Immediately before Brian's original post I was approached by Brian for background information on the areas that do not appear in the current printed guide (though are freely available via the Red Armada website). I gave Brian a copy of my original intro / historical section - though reminded him that copyright belonged to Red Armada and that any reproduction of copyrighted material must be authorised by Red Armada.
Whilst Brian's original posts do indeed give reference to the UAE Guidebook and Forum, his subsequent plagiarising and blatant 'cutting and pasting' of copyrighted material is deeply offensive to all involved in gathering and producing the guides.
Elvisuae - As I have never even heard about the possibility of climbing (rock climbing/wall climbing/bouldering)before - I have not had any intention of searching. I am saying that Brian has brought it to my attention as well the attention of many other people - and has recommended the guidebook to. No, haven't done any research to something I have not been aware of. Therefore, am grateful for the book as am for all the online info - as an absolute "newcomer".
If you are "grateful for the book", Reni, then get your fantasist moron boyfriend to do the right thing and: - DELETE all his blatant copyright theft - issue the mother of all apologies to me and everyone else who's work he has disrespected and stolen.
Reni, How do you not see that all of Brians 'info' that has been posted on here is blatantly plagiarised from red armadas guide? It's not like he's been subtle with it at all. His description of Al Ain for instance includes absolutely no local info whatsoever which would point to him actually never having been there. i.e. directions to get to wonderwall of following the E66 or E22 won't actually get you anywhere near the cliff.
From Brian: "The information that I am a submitting about these areas has been compiled from my own experiences and from scouting the areas"
I think I'm quite safe in saying (correct me if i'm wrong Brian) that none of that info has come from your "own experience or scouting"?
I don't personally know red armada, although I know other people who have put lots of time, money and effort into writing guides in the UK, and it annoys me that someone could be so stupid and blatant in their plagiarising. It's funny that Brian has been so silent since this has all come to light. Maybe he's busy, but it would be interesting to hear his point of view on it all, or are you writing for him now Reni?
I have climbed with Brian & Reni, Brian's girlfriend. As a UK qualified rock climbing instructor I believe I am in a good position to comment directly on the above posts and other correspondence that has been exchanged.
Brian has limited climbing experience. In my opinion his level of experience and knowledge of the local crags & mountainous areas is not conducive with offering instruction to novice climbers. I have particular concern about tandem abseils I have seen Brian set up for very young children. Brian's placement of trad anchors is dubious. I have witnessed two of four anchors set by Brain for a top rope fail, the third placement was poor in loose rock and the fourth an unusual placement but fortunately it held.
As a businessman I fully understand the anger felt by the owners of copy write material. Brian's actions could also have direct negative effect on my business, his actions could lead to a ban on climbing in the region. (This is not an extreme view, ask those living here).
As a businessman (I run Arabia Outdoors) & recreational climber I am very protective about our climbing environment and the climbing community. All outdoor adventure sports are new and developing in this region, they are not fully understood. Taking into consideration local culture, reactions to incidents and the lack of access rights we have to tread carefully and slowly.
Regardless of the copy write issues (Make no mistake I fully support those that have been perpetrated) Brain is damaging the reputation of climbing in this region with his antics. These include, hijacking plans for a climbers quiet New Year camp by advertising it as a party to non climbers on Facebook, and turning up at crags close to remote residences with noisy members in his group.
A lot of people over a lot of years have put a lot of effort into developing climbing in the region. Many hours have gone into research and publication of guides. One accident or repeated disturbances could very very easily lead the authorities to ban climbing. It is time for Brian to chill out and listen to what he's been told again and again or better still find another sport in another country. He is not welcome here in his current frame of mind.
Quote Pabs, "It's funny that Brian has been so silent since this has all come to light. Maybe he's busy, but it would be interesting to hear his point of view on it all, or are you writing for him now Reni? "
He is more than aware of what he has done and the following up on forums etc. As at 15.05 UAE local time he is logged onto www.uaeclimbing.com/forum/index.php where he will find a significant amount of material about his antics...and yet he has nothing to say unless Reni and Brian are one and the same?
Reni, your comment essentially distils down to "I have a boyfriend who introduced me to climbing last year". No more and no less profound than that. Your attempts to extrapolate that out to something else .... ie bigging-up your boyfriend as some kind of saviour of the UAE climbing scene ... are delusional.
Reni and I are in fact not one in the same. You would know this if you looked at the pictures. Yes, I am indeed very very busy with other very important matters. Yes, I have indeed read everything in which has been posted. Yes, my long awaited and much anticipated response which I am working on will soon be posted and available in all hopes that this situation will be resolved soon, for the best for everyone, in the best manor.
I would like to add to the issues raised in Simon Cahill’s post. I have the fortune to work very intimately with the local population in the UAE. I have spent sufficient time in the areas in question and know how much continued access to the mountains and climbing areas is on a knife edge. Access to one of the premier areas for climbing has already been withdrawn from expats.
There is no appeal here to the local authorities; we do not live in a liberal democracy. The UAE takes its security pretty seriously and decisions to ensure that security are not taken in consultation with expats. Just look at the location of where we are in relation to some of the other local ‘players’ and perhaps you’ll realise just how cautious we need to be when we go climbing.
Some of the activities that have been reported in this thread that have been perpetrated by Brian Coones are just the sort of thing that will ensure a blanket ban on any activities by expats in those areas used for climbing etc... ‘Cultural’, ‘sensitivity’ and ‘awareness’ do not appear to be in his lexicon. If you want to flaunt your western credentials, stay in the malls.