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 ADVANCED
4. Moby Grape Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Hallow T 
Manhedral T 
Moby Grape T 
Moonshadow T 
Peppy's Face S 
Psyche Dike (Bradley Leblanc's unfinished variation) T 
Tip Trip T 
Union Jack T 
Vertigo T 
White Iceberg, The T 

Union Jack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Ben and Marion Wintringham, Micheal Hartrick, Al Rubin
Page Views: 4,766
Submitted By: John Peterson on Aug 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Tim Mijal on an afterwork lap of Union Jack

Description 

Just left of Vertigo is another excellent route.

Locate the left facing flake of P2 to determine the location of the route.

P1: (5.6) Up a crack and then left (100')

P2: (5.9) This is the crux - go delicately up and left, aiming for a finger crack / layback that ends in a bulge just below the belay ledge. Exciting! (100')

P3: (5.8) Find an excellent flake up and right from the belay - this leads up about 120' to an excellent ledge below an ominous looking cave / overhang.

Although the guidebook has more pitches (5.7 and then easier), we rapped at this point - the chimney above didn't look very inviting.

Not sure if you can rap on a single 60m rope - we needed 2 50s to get down.

Not as much good climbing as Vertigo but well worth doing.

Location 

About 15' left of Vertigo.

Protection 

An extra finger sized cam or two might be nice.


Photos of Union Jack Slideshow Add Photo
Ben and Marion Wintringham on the first ascent.. caught in a rain shower. June 1973.photo Paul Ross
Ben and Marion Wintringham on the first ascent.. c...
Eddie Booph looking up through the bomb bay chimney.
Eddie Booph looking up through the bomb bay chimne...
First ascent June 1973
First ascent June 1973

Comments on Union Jack Add Comment
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 25, 2007

i would love to get a description for the rest of the route...
By John Peterson
Aug 25, 2007

The guidebook says you go up the 5.7 bombay chimney at the back of the alcove then up a 5.6 crack to easier ground. Can't vouch for this since I haven't done it though. It appeared that the majority of climbers on the route bailed after P3.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 24, 2009

Union Jack is definitely not as classic as Vertigo, but it's worth doing nonetheless. I thought it was a bit generic, compared to other Cannon climbs.
By Goodhue
From: Boulder, CO
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

From the top of the 4th class after the third pitch, I climbed underneath the overhanging chimney. Started on the left side of the face, clipped a fix pin, and traversed right on good but sketchy holds, with a nasty fall potention (R?). Then up into the chimney which wasn't as hard as it looked.

From the top of the chimney you can go right up a short 3"-4" crack and you will shortly be at a bolted rap station. Or...you can do what we did and find a way more or less straight up, pulling 5.8 handcracks and get to another ledge with a bail anchor and rap from there. I may have been off route here...Meh.
By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
Jun 20, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

The fourth pitch is 5.9 (5.7R) according to the guidebook; it seemed the crux pitch to me. I climbed past the fixed pin, backed it up, then straight up (delicate and a bit scary; a marginal 00 Metolius might have held?) before traversing right. Goodhue's lower traverse might be better, but sets up a hard swing.... And then a cool move to get into the bombay chimney. P5 has a nice layback ~5.7, and then we rapped.

Double 60s gets you to the ground from the top of P3 if you angle a bit south.
By Matt Conroy
Aug 19, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A good route, well worth doing. Pitch 4 was wet when I got to it so I opted for the lower traverse as well. It went without too much trouble but I wouldn't have wanted to fall. It should be noted that after traversing one has to climb up through a series of loose blocks. I protected beneath a large flake that seemed solid only to have the whole thing shift when I later pulled on the top of it.