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Union Dues 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Reynolds, Shane Dunleavy 1994
Page Views: 2,259
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 26, 2006
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Union Dues - a couple clips in...

Description 

Without question the best route on the wall. This route has so many different techniques packed into it's one pitch that it amazes me, and it is consistently 5.10 almost the entire length. Start with a mantle, followed by a slab move or two, up to an undercling. Traverse left on this undercling, transtition into a layback, and work the layback for a few moves. Mount the roof with a throw, make some steep face moves to another undercling. Traverse right delicately with reaches and underclings all the while slabbing it out with your feet. Mount another roof and finish with an exciting and exposed slab move to die for. WOW!


Location 

5th route from the left. Just past the easy groove right of Hidden Agenda.


Protection 

The book shows 8 bolts, I clipped 10. 2 bolt anchor at the top.



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Paying his dues.
Paying his dues.
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By JeffM
From: SLC
Aug 4, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I think this is the best single pitch bolted route in LCC. Lots of variety and fun moves. And, like all the climbs on this wall, it's well bolted. 5.10b, 4 stars.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Nov 27, 2008

I do remember this being thought provoking. But I don't remember it being as terrific as everyone talks about. Maybe it's just me. I know I thought: "That was cool" but I didn't ever think "WOW!:"

By Alec
Sep 28, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I would probably agree with Jeff on this one. Steep, sustained, great rock, really well bolted. Kind of wanders, but it goes where the holds are, and stays 5.10 most of the way. Great route!

Don't cheat yourself at the top, either. Do the slab moves. They're awesome. Going right sucks.