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BETA PHOTO: Red - Uninspiring Wall, 5.5. Blue - Rupee Dog Rout...
|Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
Approach this route from the Wind Tower trail. Where the East Slabs Descent trail intersects, take that (to the NW/left). You gotta commit to a pretty boulder-y section under the overhang of lower-Hawk Eagle, but there are good holds for the 4 moves it takes to pull up onto a short slab. Above, cut right from the East Slabs trail to the vague, overgrown 'trail' that goes along the base of HE Ridge.
As the ridge becomes vertical, find a large, left-facing dihedral/ramp below a large tree. Look 20 yards up from that. Uninspiring Wall climbs a left-facing layback section to a face, and into a small roof. Pull that, then the climb ends with a short slab and a mantle onto the ridge-top.
For now, no real staging area exists for Uninspiring Wall. The base is very sloping, with loose soil and vegetation. There's a place in the beginning layback for 2 small nuts to use for a belay anchor, if you so desire.
It's short, fun, and a great way to introduce climbers to roofs.Passive gear is a good idea, as some of the rock is a bit 'crunchy'.
It's tempting to use the huge blocks to the right of the exit for an anchor. If you feel good about that, go for it, but I found them to be just too hollow-sounding to trust.As a good alternative, there's a tree at the top of the route. That works well for a primary anchor. There's also a slot for a small nut to the left of the tree to work as a back-up.
Debbie on Uninspiring Wall.
By Jay Eggleston
Aug 13, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
In the Steve Levin guidebook, it shows the route going straight up over the roof following a thin crack. The line drawn in the photo on this site shows the route going to the right of the roof. We went over the roof at the crack, and it felt about 5.5 in difficulty.