Unholy Wick  5.8

436 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Dick Williams, Bill Goldner, 1965 Submitted By:  Dana Bartlett on Oct 8, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

1. Move up into the flaring, right-facing corner. Climb out left (crux, this can be done at several spots) to an obvious, right-facing flake, then go up and left to a small ledge. Move right a bit then go straight to the GT ledge. 5.7, 150 feet.

2. Walk right until you are at the bolted rap station. Go up to a shallow, left-facing corner that leads to a roof at 30 feet. Once past this, drift up and left to a very large flake. Belay behind this flake. 5.6, 70 feet.

3. Move to the end of the ledge and climb a crack in the left wall of the corner to a small grassy ledge. Several more moves and you're on top. 5.8, 40 feet.

The first pitch is a very reasonable and nice 5.7 and worth doing by itself.

Rappel down the bolted line over The Last Will Be First to climbers' right.

Location 

Locate the High Exposure buttress, then walk back left approximately 200 feet. Look for a flared, right-facing corner with a roof. The corner starts about 8-10 feet from the ground.

Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack.