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Routes in Holy Buttress Cliff
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Dr. Strange Glove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Holy Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Rat Race T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rude Intrusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unholy Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Vertebrae T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | Preston Rhea, Steph Lozano - 9.3.2014 |
| Page Views: | 744 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Preston Rhea on Sep 17, 2014 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is a variation to the Holy Buttress.
Knobby face climbing above a boulder leads to a thin crack. The R rating comes from these first handful of moves. The gear is thin and relatively spaced out with a bad landing. Follow the thin crack to a large ledge.
This climb can be done in one long pitch, but it may be better to break it into two shorter ones to avoid rope drag issues. The ledge is the obvious place to break up the climb.
Broken climbing above the ledge leads to another short headwall. Either take the right arching crack on the right or the crack into gully on the left.
Knobby face climbing above a boulder leads to a thin crack. The R rating comes from these first handful of moves. The gear is thin and relatively spaced out with a bad landing. Follow the thin crack to a large ledge.
This climb can be done in one long pitch, but it may be better to break it into two shorter ones to avoid rope drag issues. The ledge is the obvious place to break up the climb.
Broken climbing above the ledge leads to another short headwall. Either take the right arching crack on the right or the crack into gully on the left.
Location
Starts on top of the boulder immediately right of Holy Buttress.
There is no fixed anchor at top. Walk off climber's left back to the base.
There is no fixed anchor at top. Walk off climber's left back to the base.
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