This route is on the clean face on the left side of Lost Wall. There are four or five routes on this face (not listed in the guidebooks). Unhinged climbs the hand crack to the right of a couple difficult routes that have a few old-style bolts. It leads into a chimney about 75 feet off the ground. This route has excellent hand, finger, and off-hand sizes. Unhinged is vertical and sustained for the grade. It takes great pro and the first pitch ends at an old two-bolt anchor with slings. Climb to the top or rap the first pitch with a 60m rope. This is a true mid-country gem.
standard rack to 3" with emphasis on hand and thin-hand sizes.
Face where "Unhinged" resides.
|By Wes Turner|
Jun 9, 2005
is this as good as it sounds?? If it is I am going to make an effort to get to it next time I go out there..
Aug 11, 2005
This climb is one of the best and purest crack climbs on Mt. Lemmon. I'd walk out there again just to do this climb.
|By greg k|
Feb 18, 2013
looks like a nag but climbs like a thoroughbred. unhinged is easily on par w/ the likes of rapture, odyssey, gashleycrumb tinies...
btw, anyone know about the lines left of unhinged. they look longer, cleaner and more sustained, in other words, pretty damn unbelievable!
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Feb 19, 2013
Hey Greg, It is funny that I don't really remember much about this climb and have been surprised that people find this route to be so good. I only remember that it was a crack that took good pro the whole way which is rare on the Lemmon. When we did this route in the 1980s there was only one route that had been started by Steve Grossman and Peter Noebels on the wall to the left. Sounds like it would be worth checking them out.
|By greg k|
Feb 20, 2013
Eric, looks like you'd be well advised to re-sample this line; I don't think it gets much better on the mountain (of course routes are always more memorable when I'm at my limit). Let me know about the climbs on the left. They looked to be above my pay-grade.
I was really surprised at the accessibility of the Lost Wall; I had envisioned a much longer slog. I'm a little amazed there hasn't been more route development there. I look forward to your trip report.