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Lilly Bluff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alien S 
Aneurism S 
Blade Loafer T,S 
Body Hammer S 
Borderline S 
Clyde the Mega Dude S 
Dinosaur Jr. S 
Dirty Deeds S 
Done Dirt Cheep S 
Egyptian S 
Electric Chair S 
Electric Sky S 
Gangsta S 
Heresy S 
Ivy League S 
La Familia S 
Lounge Lizard S 
Mixed Nuts T,S 
Motion Sickness S 
NC Sport Climber T 
Osiris S 
Paraphernalia S 
Piggy T 
Poison Ivy S 
Rocking Chair T,S 
Tarantella S 
Ticks Are For Kids S 
Unga Bunga T 
Wheatward Bound S 
Whipper Snapper S 
Yakuza S 
Unsorted Routes:

Unga Bunga 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FFA John Sites (95)?, perhaps Cormany/Stannard
Season: Any
Page Views: 331
Submitted By: chummer on Oct 26, 2010

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This is the obvious chimney and roof crack system next to Heresy. We hadn't heard of anyone climbing this before but perhaps the early developers Cormany and Stannard did this one back in the day.

If you're in the mood for some burly trad this is for you. Probably way dirty and needs a good cleaning before you can enjoy the climbing.


Climb the obvious chimney without to much difficulty to the 15 foot roof crack. The roof is mostly buckets but there's a little crux waiting out at the lip unless you find the rest...then it's pretty easy.


Standard trad rack. Long draws. Maybe a few big pieces.

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