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Unforgiven 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: SA, Abishek Chandrashakur, Justin Keptuch
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
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Description 

Another amazing climb; with sustained, aesthetic moves. The final, lengthy crux section is stunning. Start Between Valhalla and Valhalla Direct, at a prominent right-facing pointed flake. Climb up to a roof (#4 Camalot) bearing a bolt above, pull through to the crack above, and then transfer left onto the easy section of crack on Valhalla. Reach up and out left to a roof, and up through the roof to a hanging, left-facing corner. Engage the crux section, and hope for absolution! (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.


Protection 

8 bolts, stoppers #3-7, small cams, #4 Camalot, anchors.


location 

Start downhill and right of Vahalla (see Squeezing the Lemmon), on the right side of the prominent right-facing, pointed flake.



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By 1Eric Rhicard
May 30, 2011

Rating this 11+ is a sandbag. Probably closer to 12b which makes David Merins onsight even more impressive. Very tenuous climbing in a number of places. This climb will save your tips as there are a lot of rounded holds. No need for the #4 at the first roof. The first move over the roof is kind of fun but really doesn't add much to the climb and moving left to Valhalla is harder for shorter folks. Take a green and purple camalot for the section that crosses Valhalla. The rest of the climb is a blast with the upper section being hard to figure out the easiest option if you are onsighting. I didn't OS it and thought it would be easier on the next run. That run and redpoint occurred the next day after a good warm-up and it still seemed desperate to me. Perhaps it is 11+ if you are over 6 feet tall.