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 ADVANCED
Doc Holiday Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Doc's Holiday S 
Far Beyond Driven S 
Loose Women, Loose Rock T 
Pistol Pete S 
Quick on the Draw S 
Skyline Pillar S 
Unforgiven S 

Unforgiven 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Chris Miller, Pete Paredes and Chuck Scott, July 2001
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 889
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Pete starting up Unforgiven (5.11b), Holcomb Valle...

Description 

Head up past the starts of Pistol Pete and Doc's Holiday and then scramble atop a block to gain the start of this route.

Lieback a large, left-facing flake past two bolts which pinches down a bit higher forming a small roof. Clip the 3rd bolt and then fire over the roof (5.11) on slick edges until possible to gain the security of a finger slot. From here climb the right arete/face of the formation (5.9) past two bolts to anchors on a ledge.

Good moves on this route but lacking the continuous nature of the routes further left it's not quite a classic.


Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchors



Photos of Unforgiven Slideshow Add Photo
Solid undercling rest at the 3rd bolt.
Solid undercling rest at the 3rd bolt.
Zak bests his first 11B!
Zak bests his first 11B!
Photo topo for Doc Holiday Wall, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
BETA PHOTO: Photo topo for Doc Holiday Wall, Holcomb Valley Pi...
I'd like to think it was more of a stalemate than a failure.
I'd like to think it was more of a stalemate than ...
Past the friendly bush and committing crux.
Past the friendly bush and committing crux.
Comments on Unforgiven Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 3, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Difficult moves with long reaches and committing. Hard for the grade IMO.

~Susan

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Ok, tried it again a year later. The thing is still hard getting past the 3rd bolt. Key holds are there but difficult to release to get them without falling. Harder than it looks.

Nonetheless I got the rope to the anchor. Next time, no hanging at the crux.

This route is a classic example on how it only takes one move to dictate the grade. The bottom & top sections are significantly easier to ascend.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 2, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Tricky bouldery crux, with an annoying dead bush in your face right as you finish the sequence. Battle the remanants of the bush for a move or two with bad feet then it's a stroll to the top. Good route that suffers a bit from its non-continuous nature and malevolent deceased flora. 2/5 stars for the area. Compared to other ratings in the area, I'd say it's on the stiff side, but the area as a whole feels a tad soft, so maybe just call it "5.11".

By tom donnelly
Jun 22, 2010

If you contrive to stay left of the bush, it adds a bit better climbing on the upper part.

By RAZORsharp
From: Carlsbad CA
Oct 12, 2011

There used to be a loose as hell, big flake near the anchors with a notorious red x on it.... It is gone. watch for loose/uncleaned lines that are chalked up!

By Devin Trafford
Jun 26, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

A few near-invisible crimps that lead past the 3rd bolt to a series of committing moves.

If you can make it to the 4th bolt, you've got the route.