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Unfinished Symphony
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2.1 from 8
votes
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Earth Juice T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Grape Nuts S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Greased Lightning T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Pork Soda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Red Rock Canyon Wilderness Memorial Route, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Swing Shift T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unfinished Symphony T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown Juice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Weenie Juice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Ross Harwick, Joe Herbst, Andre Langenbach '78 |
| Page Views: | 3,238 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | beny on Feb 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Unfinished Symphony is a great line for an offwidth enthusiast. And even for someone wanting to practice the wide stuff, this is a good line: the cracks are featured and protect well. Pitches 1/2 and 3/4 link easily with 60m cords.
P1: Start on blocky, broken rock beneath the open book feature. Climb up on varied rock, passing ledges to a ledge with slings left of the crack. 5.9, 90 ft.
P2: Step back right to the corner and climb up to a low angled ramp below a steeper wide crack. Belay here. 5.8, 70 ft.
P3: Climb up the wide crack above, passing a roof and ending at a small ledge with two bolts. Great pitch. 5.8, 80 ft.
P4: The fun continues up a squeeze chimney/wide crack with good holds to get to low angled rock beneath a wide roof crack. Sling belay. 5.8, 90 ft.
P5: The good stuff. Climb up to the steepish crack and struggle out the slightly flaring wide crack. It narrows back to hands after 20 feet of wideness. Continue up the corner on looser rock to a chockstone anchor. 5.11c, 120 ft.
Descent: Rap from the top of P5 to the top of P3 (full 60m). Rap from top of P3 to top of P1 (150 ft). Rap 90 ft to the ground.
Notes: The first two pitches are duds, but the upper pitches make up for it. It is possible to climb from the ground to the midpoint of P3 with a 60 m cord. This puts you at a good stance just below the obvious wide roof in the middle of P3. Natural belay off gear from anywhere around yellow met to 5 friend. The crux pitch as 3 bolts. They look less than inspiring and are more in the way than anything. You'll probably curse their installers numerous times as your back and knees scrape against them. They aren't at all needed. Also, the flaring nature of the crack allows for many sizes of cams to fit at the crux, depending on how deep you're willing to place. You probably wouldn't want to push any farther back than a 3 camalot.
P1: Start on blocky, broken rock beneath the open book feature. Climb up on varied rock, passing ledges to a ledge with slings left of the crack. 5.9, 90 ft.
P2: Step back right to the corner and climb up to a low angled ramp below a steeper wide crack. Belay here. 5.8, 70 ft.
P3: Climb up the wide crack above, passing a roof and ending at a small ledge with two bolts. Great pitch. 5.8, 80 ft.
P4: The fun continues up a squeeze chimney/wide crack with good holds to get to low angled rock beneath a wide roof crack. Sling belay. 5.8, 90 ft.
P5: The good stuff. Climb up to the steepish crack and struggle out the slightly flaring wide crack. It narrows back to hands after 20 feet of wideness. Continue up the corner on looser rock to a chockstone anchor. 5.11c, 120 ft.
Descent: Rap from the top of P5 to the top of P3 (full 60m). Rap from top of P3 to top of P1 (150 ft). Rap 90 ft to the ground.
Notes: The first two pitches are duds, but the upper pitches make up for it. It is possible to climb from the ground to the midpoint of P3 with a 60 m cord. This puts you at a good stance just below the obvious wide roof in the middle of P3. Natural belay off gear from anywhere around yellow met to 5 friend. The crux pitch as 3 bolts. They look less than inspiring and are more in the way than anything. You'll probably curse their installers numerous times as your back and knees scrape against them. They aren't at all needed. Also, the flaring nature of the crack allows for many sizes of cams to fit at the crux, depending on how deep you're willing to place. You probably wouldn't want to push any farther back than a 3 camalot.
Protection
We took a set of cams from 1 camalot to 5 friend with doubles of 4 and 5 friend. Also, we took a yellow and red met tcu with 4 or 5 nuts. If i did it again, i wouldn't take the extra 4 and 5. They aren't necessary. However, if you're not a confident wide crack climber, you may want to add a 6 inch piece for the 5.8, 5.9 pitches. The anchors on this route are less than stellar. I get the feeling this route doesn't see a lot of traffic, so you may want to bring a few leaver biners and extra slingage.
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