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Picnic Lunch Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Appian Way S 
Bubbas In Bondage T 
Coleslaw and Chemicals S 
Five Easy Pieces S 
Five Easy Pieces (start) S 
Free Lunch T 
Free Picnic Lunch Wall T 
Highway 97 S 
Honey Pot S 
La Siesta S 
Picnic Lunch Wall T 
Spartacus S 
Suicidal Tendencies S 
Teddy Bear's Picnic S 
Touch S 
Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Alan Watts, May 14, 1982
Page Views: 974
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 16, 2009

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Description 

This excellent crack at the base of the sweeping Picnic Lunch Wall was at one time the hardest free route at Smith Rock. Twelve days later, Unfinished Symphony was usurped by the arching Midnight Snack (only a few hundred feet to the left) at 12b/c, but the line remains an enjoyable testpiece for tradsters & history buffs alike.

Begin with easy moves up big, incut flakes, and continue with easy stemming. The difficulty increases with height, as the stems become more awkward and the footholds less secure. After clipping a fixed angle, an awkward rest is possible in the shallow corner. The crux hits as the angle kicks back and the offset switches from left-facing to right-facing. A few key faceholds will prove useful, or jam the flaring pinscars to reach a good ledge at the anchor.

Location 

On the main portion of the Picnic Lunch Wall there are three prominant arching cracks. Unfinished Symphony begins up the right-most of these arches, but heads straight up where the arch begins to break left. This is also the first major crack left of Five Easy Pieces, and right of Coleslaw & Chemicals.


Note, this route is the first pitch of the A3 aid climb by the same name.

Protection 

2 bolts, 1 Fixed pin, RPs, stoppers, & finger-sized cams.


Photos of Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) Slideshow Add Photo
Onsighting Unfinsihed Symphony, in the midst of th...
Onsighting Unfinsihed Symphony, in the midst of th...
The route begins with relatively easy liebacking &...
The route begins with relatively easy liebacking &...
A final awkward rest before the crux.
A final awkward rest before the crux.

Comments on Unfinished Symphony (First Pitch) Add Comment
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 16, 2009

Unfortunately a new route to the left squeezes this line a bit near the top. It also appears (speculation) that this new line features a number of chipped holds, which can serve as footholds on Unfinished Symphony for climbers with long legs.
By Adam Therneau
May 15, 2009

I hope that the holds aren't chipped. If so, that's incredibly lame. I know the rock on that wall isn't always the best, but come on. I don't think there's any justification for blatantly manufacturing holds these days, but chipping within reach of an established route is inexcusable. Particularly at a place like Smith where there are several hundred climbs you could do at just about any grade from 10a to 13+. I would hope this is an isolated incident and that new routes at Smith aren't being put up with an "anything goes" mentality.