This climb is on the west end of the buttress no where near where it is shown in SQII. Pretty fun climb with good pro. Anchors are up and right of the large broken pillar quite a ways off the line. They are there because the FA team had planned to climb the crack above but it turned out to be too chossy. This climb has an old school feel with some runs on much easier ground.
Climbs weaknesses up to a corner crack that leads to a large blocky broken pillar. The route busts right before you reach the top of the crack.
Gear to Yellow camalot.
Nov 29, 2011
A must do for the trad climber who happens to be wandering around back there with a rack wondering what to do while wandering around.
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 9, 2014
The anchors are approximatley 6 feet left of the anchors for Needle Noggin at the base of the seam.
What is the intended start? Do you (1) Scramble to the ledge from the right, (2) climb the chossy looking weakness by Critic's Choice or (3) clip the first three bolts Needle Noggin.
Feb 10, 2014
We scrambled onto the ledge from the right. You can get a small but good TCU to protect the moves out onto the face and up to the ledge where the first bolt can be seen.