Unfinished Concerto provides the meat of the route in the first pitch - nice crack climbing to a very balancy mantel on to a ledge with bolts. From here, 2-3 pitches of easier climbing takes you to the Gemini Rappel Anchors. Double ropes are needed to rap to Sentry Box ledge and one single rope rappel (or down climb) gets you to the ground.
Located on a tree covered ledge to the left of Rat's Ass and Second Coming. Look for the great hand size crack on the first pitch.
Standard NC rack. Double ropes, long runners.
BETA PHOTO: P1 start. You can just see the 'block' as you pul...
Starting the crux
BETA PHOTO: Nearing crux
|By Sean Cobourn|
From: Gramling, SC
Jan 30, 2009
Look out for snakes at the base. I've come across copperheads a couple times and heard tell of rattlers too!
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The bolts on pitch 1 should be moved 100'+ higher.
There is a splitter at the top of P1.
P2 is totally worthy.
Rap rings would service Fat Dog to Rat's Ass. Sentry Box?
All without adding a single bolt. But then again.... let's encourage toproping an obvious multipitch climb.
|By Trevor Shumaker|
From: Missoula, MT
Feb 9, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
…or get rid of the bolts altogether, I hear "There is a splitter at the top of P1". What are those bolts even for?
From: Charlotte, NC
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
A terrific route! It starts off with a very cool splitter crack and some great foot jamming. The splitter protects well. Make a delicate move out of the splitter and onto a great left foot stance (see photo uploaded). A constricted slot under the bulge will eat your small to medium sized nutz.
After this short lived nut snack, you start the crux proper. Pumpy, past vertical series of moves. Feet high and pull the first block. You'll be standing on a solid foothold at this point with hands buried in crux block (upper white'ish block). Pumpy but there is a horizontal to climber's left of crux-block that takes a nicely placed pink tricam. You can also slot a 0.75 green BD vertically in the slot between crux-block and wall proper. I put a sliding X on these two pieces and then hung there several times in the fetal position wondering how to pull this mantle.
Personally found the mantle to be pretty darn hard. Once on top of block the fun isn't over--- at 5'8", I found the deep, protectable horizontal that is up and to climber's right just out of reach, which is the only gear in this section above the mantle block. Had to traverse out right and up to place gear. Pretty delicate.
Two options from there: 1). get back into dihedral above block and pull reachy moves. 2). stay on face climber's right of dihedral and balance up the face. I sent option #2 and felt the face was very "P2-Sundial" like. Balance and smear with little to no hands.
P2 of UFC is quick. Some hollow flakes so climb smart! P2 isn't special for sure. But if you setup a solid belay after running out all the rope, you can quickly traverse over about 90' to upper Gemini/Rat's Ass rap station (let's call that P3 but you're going sideways the entire time). A TWO rope rap will land you on Sentry Box, which is great if your plan is to fire up any of the Sentry Box climbs. And for goodness sakes, put knots on the end of your ropes because 60m will hit Sentry with only a couple of feet to spare.