Unexpected Difficulties  5.11a

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Richard Jensen and Mark Smith, 81/82 Season:  September - May (Summer Optimal) Submitted By:  Isaac T. on Jan 3, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>> Do not drive into the Quarry. You will be ticketed $150 for trespassing. Climbing access is open, just park on the street. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route follows the obvious jagged crack on the far left of Slab city. There are not very many trad routes at the Riverside Quarry, this is one of the few. The initial part of the crack is very steep, and getting pro in will pump you out. It does not get climbed very much so it is a little dusty, also pigeons and swallows love the crack so it can be a little poopy in areas. (I noticed though that it only gets poopy if you get off route, it may have changed since I last climbed it though Summer 06)

Location 

The crack follows the obvious jagged crack that is to your left if you are facing the rather large roof in slab city. Stay out of the corner go past the first roof and then up another 10-15 (?) feet. Traverse along underneath the smaller roof to finish at the sling belay next to the small notch. 2nd pitch follow the small seams up onto the slab and finish at the chains.

Protection 

1st pitch - Mostly medium sized cams and nuts to about 4", if you have Hexes bring em.
2nd pitch - Way small stuff to 1 1/2" chains at the top there are a few bolts (#?)