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Undocumented Free Roof
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Fourth Buttress
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.... Variation of Mickey Mantel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Candelaria's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Endgame T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Flake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Heartland, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mickey Mantel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scrundle Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Smooth Groove T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Face Roof 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Undocumented Free Roof T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vexatious Undertaking TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Zolar Czakl T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Zolar Czakl (Direct) T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,087 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 2, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This is a moderate climb that must surely have been done before, but it does not match any documentation we could find. The crux lies in some fun and secure jamming and jugs coming out a left-leaning overhang at the right side of the old aid roof. The remainder of the climbing is mostly easier, mostly solid, and it is all well-protected.
The route starts up a steep crack system (5.7) just below and right of the old aid roof. This lies just to the right of a lower angle system that might be more commonly used. Despite its steepness in a few spots, it is not hard. It may be about 5.7 or 5.8 with good protection. The angle reduces as you approach the roof, and you may notice a fixed angle in a horizontal crack in the last small bulge before the roof. Come up and into the roof and place a hand-sized cam in an overhanging, left-leaning crack behind what looks like a huge chockstone that forms the right-hand side of the roof and climb out that on jams and jugs. This is surprisingly easy given its appearance, with a grade of perhaps 5.9- for only a move or two, and has good protection.
Continue up over the bulge and get established on the crack system at the right hand edge of the rib of rock you are now on, following that line to just below a summit where a cable anchor with aluminum rap-rings can be accessed.
The route starts up a steep crack system (5.7) just below and right of the old aid roof. This lies just to the right of a lower angle system that might be more commonly used. Despite its steepness in a few spots, it is not hard. It may be about 5.7 or 5.8 with good protection. The angle reduces as you approach the roof, and you may notice a fixed angle in a horizontal crack in the last small bulge before the roof. Come up and into the roof and place a hand-sized cam in an overhanging, left-leaning crack behind what looks like a huge chockstone that forms the right-hand side of the roof and climb out that on jams and jugs. This is surprisingly easy given its appearance, with a grade of perhaps 5.9- for only a move or two, and has good protection.
Continue up over the bulge and get established on the crack system at the right hand edge of the rib of rock you are now on, following that line to just below a summit where a cable anchor with aluminum rap-rings can be accessed.
Location
This route climbs from the center of the gravely ledge on the West End of the South Face of the 4th Elephant.
The route starts up a steep crack system (5.7) just below and right of the old aid roof, continues out a very steep handcrack at the left side of a trapped 4' "chockstone" just right of the aid roof, and then up the cracks and flakes on the prow to a fixed cable anchor as for the Aid Roof.
The route starts up a steep crack system (5.7) just below and right of the old aid roof, continues out a very steep handcrack at the left side of a trapped 4' "chockstone" just right of the aid roof, and then up the cracks and flakes on the prow to a fixed cable anchor as for the Aid Roof.
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