Before even thinking about doing this problem, get a bevy of pads and spotters. Or don't, and play the tough-guy. Definitely one of the more committing highball-ish problems at Skofield, with a "death" boulder below.
Either way, this problem hasn't been courted too much since the 90's, and only recently has seen attention from local climbers. And while its obscurity isn't surprising given the nature of the fall-zone, the movement is (in my opinion) as good as To a Grave. After easy moves down low, turn the lip on to bad holds. Crux is at the top.
The roadside aspect of the Caretaker Boulder. Just right of To a Grave, and just left of Undercarriage. Sit-start on boulder.
Pads and ninja-spotters.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 1, 2012
The first time I really went for it on this problem, I hadn't cleaned the top hold and slipped, mid-crux, my body completely askew. I plummeted, pinged off the boulder, and smacked near the road, on my back.
But my spotters rocked, and so did the two pads we brought. They kept me from hitting pavement, and shielded sundry vital appendages from grazing the "death" boulder. I sent minutes later, motivated by the knowledge that I could indeed fall—and be safe.
Everyone should have some badass, fully-committed spotters. Seriously. And everyone should BE badass, committed spotters. Just saying.