||Trad, Alpine, 2000', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]|
|FA: ||Underhill, Clyde, Robinson, Farquhar, Dawson, Clark, Eichorn - August 1931|
|Season: ||Spring to Fall - Spring is best|
|Page Views: ||1,049|
|Submitted By: ||Chris Owen on Feb 1, 2007|
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BETA PHOTO: Underhill Couloir Route
AKA Undertaker Couloir.
Class 4 minus the summit monolith (5.9). Route of peak's first ascent.
Approach via the Palisade Glacier. Cross the bergschrund (gets bigger as the season progresses). Climb the righthand couloir, passing a chockstone on the right - continue up a chimney to the notch between North Palisade and Thunderbolt Peak. There are two ways from here; either traverse ledges on the south side then up a gully to the summit ridge. Or (better) climb directly up the ridge from the notch to the summit monolith.
Better when there's snow in the couloir - the couloir is horribly loose when free of snow.
Descend the route -- (rap and downclimb-- there are fixed pins along the right-side of the gully at each rap station).
North facing couloir between North Palisade and Thunderbolt Peak.
Solo class 4 - ice-axe and possibly crampons. Summit monolith (5.9) may require a length of rope.
From: Newport Beach
Jul 31, 2012
I just rappelled this and it was horribly loose and dangerous. Do not climb this route when it is dry.