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Underdog 

5.10a

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
FA: Chris Smith, 1999
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (122)
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One of the coolest holds at Rumney.... Found in th...

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Description 

Underdog is deservedly the most popular 5.10 at Rumney. The route is long and the views of the Baker River Valley are superb. And because of the capping roofs, Underdog is one of the few sub 5.12s at Rumney that stays dry in the rain.

Scramble up easy rock to the first bolt. Here the angle steepens. The technical crux of the route involves moving left near the fourth bolt. If you find yourself groping on desperate slopers, you are probably missing something. Continue past the distinctive "triangle," a hole in the rock that is easily seen from the ground. A thin move or two brings you to the last moves before the anchor. Though initially confounding, these moves yield with some thought.

From the anchors of Underdog, it is easy to traverse (on belay, of course) left to the anchors of Peanut Man or Thin Man for toproping or draw-hanging purposes.


Protection 

9 bolts.



Photos of Underdog Slideshow Add Photo
James Otey starting up Underdog...

James Otey starting up Underdog...

James Otey moveing past the triangle hold half way up the route...

James Otey moveing past the triangle hold half way...

Underdog: Brian nears the finish, under the sheltering roof

Underdog: Brian nears the finish, under the shelte...

Underdog.

Underdog.

RB all up in that piece.

RB all up in that piece.

Aryesh with his ritualistic Kenny G warm up on underdog.

Aryesh with his ritualistic Kenny G warm up on und...

Aryesh on underdog.

Aryesh on underdog.

Charlie emerging from the bowels of Underdog

Charlie emerging from the bowels of Underdog

Charlie departing from the corner on a radiant spring afternoon

Charlie departing from the corner on a radiant spr...

working through the lower crux on Underdog... didnt catch her name, anyone know her?

working through the lower crux on Underdog... didn...

Charlie on his flash of Underdog

Charlie on his flash of Underdog

kevin on underdog and the baker river valley...

kevin on underdog and the baker river valley...

kevin making the reach... dont worry he's tough he doesnt need the good part of the hold :)

kevin making the reach... dont worry he's tough he...

Steve searching for the wonderful jug

Steve searching for the wonderful jug

Steve finishing up the final corner

Steve finishing up the final corner

Otey warming up on underdog on a perfect fall morning

Otey warming up on underdog on a perfect fall morn...

nicole nestled in to the chimney

nicole nestled in to the chimney

nicole not beliving me that she can reach the hidden jug

nicole not beliving me that she can reach the hidd...


Comments on Underdog Add Comment
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By GMBurns
Jul 15, 2008
rating: 5.10a PG13

Tricky sequence through the middle and a tough / awkward finish, but a really nice route overall.

By Steve Marcil
Sep 12, 2009

The LO's are getting scary up there. One of them in eaten half way through. please don't top-rope on the permanent gear.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 28, 2010
rating: 5.10a

So i have been climbing for just over 3 years mainly in Rumney and I had never done this route until yesterday, it was a treat, THIS ROUTE IS AWESOME, I am seriously saddened i had not done this route before, if you are in Rumney and you can climb 5.10a be sure to do this route! there isn't any bad climbing on the route! 4 stars for sure!

By steple
Jul 7, 2011
rating: 5.10a

Thanks for replacing quick links, Mark. People really need to learn how to rappel.

By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Oct 9, 2012

How are the falls on this? Looking to start breaking into .10's

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 13, 2012

they are fine... there are steeper 10s with even cleaner falls but this is a great route to break in to the grade...

By S. Neoh
Oct 13, 2012
rating: 5.10a

I have never taken a whip on this route but being a route by Chris, I believe all the falls will be OK. And this is one of the best .10a sport routes I have done anywhere in the US.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Feb 5, 2013

I have fallen coming out of the crux traverse. It very much startled me (my belayer fell over catching me), but it was quite clean. No nasty bumps into the rock or anything :)