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 ADVANCED
Little Twin Owls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angry Man 
Arete T,TR 
Clingon 
Finger Crack T,TR 
Jaws 
Knee Catcher T,TR 
One-move Wonder 
Pat's Slab 
Tooth Arete 
Tooth Slab 
Trade Problem 
Undercling Right T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Undercling Right 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,162
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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5.8 start.

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The zig-zag crack just right of the obvious wide crack, on the north little Owl. Undercling and jam from the ground at 5.9, or step in higher up off of a ramp at a 5.8 thin crack. A good little route.

[Eds. Interestingly, there are 3 ways to do this route. S. Kimball's guide describes a 5.8 version which starts on Knee Catcher. R. Rossiter's guide describes this as Flake, 5.8+. He also describes starting with a thin seam (challenging) on the right. B. Gillett's guide describes starting up the awkward zig-zag crack as 5.9+.]

Protection 

Bring a light standard rack to a #2 Friend.


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By Mike Pharris
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 15, 2009

As of 9/13/09 the right hand summit - at the top of the zig zag crack route - only has one chain/bolt. There's one empty hole and one hole that's been cemented over. The rock up there has a bit of a hollow ring to it as well. We couldn't find any real way to back up the chains. Climber beware.

There are two chains on the left hand side - at the top of Knee Catcher.
By Brandon Glanton
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 4, 2010

Beautiful climb if taking the Zig Zag route, highly recommended. Be sure to use long draws for the Zig Zag. Anchors still not repaired as of June 3, 2010.
By John Korfmacher
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 26, 2012

If you do the full three-segment zigzag on this route, the lowest 10m are solid 5.9/9+. Poor feet and the angle of the cracks makes for insecure holds. The angles also make passive protection difficult.
By Jeff Edge
Aug 9, 2013

Felt about as hard as the ArÍte hahah, still only one bolt up there, set a TR solo redirected with a clove on the single bolt...definitely not ideal.