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The Patio
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bell Bottom 
Bell Bottom Blues 
Bottom Feeder 
Carrying Futons 
Clyde's Big Adventure 
El Patio 
For Whom the Bell Tolls 
War on Peace, The 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vino Kodas
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 215
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Oct 20, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Routes Above The Patio
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>


Above the tree crossing at the Patio boulder problem. On the right side of the Patio problem look for a high bolt and corner that starts 25 feet up. Stick clip the first bolt or place gear (1 1/2 to 2) to get to first bolt.Power past the crux and up into corner. Place gear, then move right to arete/ face past a third bolt and up to 2-bolt anchor.


Small to medium gear and quickdraws.

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By ac
Jul 28, 2005

This route should have ended just over the lip at the 2nd bolt as a V4 bolted boulder problem. The upper corner and face are chossy and lame. A seemingly solid foothold collapsed under my weight in the corner sending me for a scraping fall, so look out here.

The Patio has a good collection of 1-star routes and is a great place for a quick workout. Expect bouldery cruxes at the equivalent V grade. War on Peace was the best of the bunch, and might deserve 2 stars. Underbelly is the worst. Antebellum looks quite nice, but we didn't have the right gear for that one (bring a 3.5 Camalot).

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

If this is the route I think it is, then the first clip can be done from a right-leg kneebar, and no stick clip is required. Gear still seems like a good idea before it. The route is OK, but still needs a serious cleaning. What can I say? After doing 4 of these routes, I can't keep straight which is which except this one and only then because it needed a few placements (take your small TCU) and was so dirty.