Above the tree crossing at the Patio boulder problem. On the right side of the Patio problem look for a high bolt and corner that starts 25 feet up. Stick clip the first bolt or place gear (1 1/2 to 2) to get to first bolt.Power past the crux and up into corner. Place gear, then move right to arete/ face past a third bolt and up to 2-bolt anchor.
Small to medium gear and quickdraws.
Jul 28, 2005
This route should have ended just over the lip at the 2nd bolt as a V4 bolted boulder problem. The upper corner and face are chossy and lame. A seemingly solid foothold collapsed under my weight in the corner sending me for a scraping fall, so look out here.
The Patio has a good collection of 1-star routes and is a great place for a quick workout. Expect bouldery cruxes at the equivalent V grade. War on Peace was the best of the bunch, and might deserve 2 stars. Underbelly is the worst. Antebellum looks quite nice, but we didn't have the right gear for that one (bring a 3.5 Camalot).
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If this is the route I think it is, then the first clip can be done from a right-leg kneebar, and no stick clip is required. Gear still seems like a good idea before it. The route is OK, but still needs a serious cleaning. What can I say? After doing 4 of these routes, I can't keep straight which is which except this one and only then because it needed a few placements (take your small TCU) and was so dirty.
Jun 30, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Agree with ac - this should have ended just above the start. The climbing above this is absolute garbage: absolutely filthy, mungy rock, crappy climbing. The icing on the cake is having to share the anchor out right, which tries to force you to re-climb it to clean your gear. Just say no.
I thought the start of this was as hard or harder than any of the 12a's at this crag. Not a lot to work with.