Start in the bushy stepped OWish section with good gear, some stemming, and nice fists. The fin-like projections make for good feet. Move right and slither over a hump and into a nice rest area before firing up a few meters of wide chimney moves (or stemming). Find the beautiful hand crack and follow it to its conclusion.
Rope drag must be managed carefully.
Go left around the corner from the very apparent Skull roof / dihedral crack. Also, just to the right of Overdrive.
It is probably better to surmount the boulder above where the hand crack concludes for an easier walk off back toward Fantasia rock, but it is possible to get down via a chimney (channel) to the west, although this downclimb was "a bit" sketchy.
Friends #1 to #4; a #5 can be used but seems superfluous. Build your own gear anchor at the top.
Jul 14, 2012
Fun climb if you're in the area. We did this in two short pitches (minimizes rope drag). The hand crack on the upper section is great but too short. Don't do the chimney down climb. In my opinion, it's just sketchy.
|By Christina kalb|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 3, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
We also did this in 2 short pitches to minimize the rope drag.