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The New River Wall
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Enjoy Your Youth  
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Love Your Enemies  
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Public Inclinations Direct Start  
Public Youth 
Red Makes Me Angry! 
Sonic Vibrations  
Sonic Youth 
Swamp Traverse 
Sweet Inclinations  
Sweet Inspirations 
Than's Problem? 
Under Your Clings 
Unknown at New River 
Unsorted Routes:

Under Your Clings 

Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: ?????
Season: When the water is low enough to climb it.
Page Views: 614
Submitted By: Luke Childers on Sep 27, 2009
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Luke Childers clinging to the under cling for the ...

Description 

On the right side of the "Dark Waters" problem by about 6-8 feet there is a nice two handed under cling feature located close to the caves main right sided lip and an obvious break in the main roof section.

Start with both hands crimping the shallow under cling and step your Right foot up high into a nice heel-toe cam. From here, bust up and right to a nice rail of jugs. (Some use lower at your face level bump moves, these holds are optional.)

From the good rail located out and above the two handed under cling, start traverse right on powerful jugs and crimps until you reach the end of the caves logical and farthermost monster jug. Finish by simply putting your feet back on the ground.

For some extra pump you can turn around and make a killer lip traverse all the way back to the left side of the cave finishing on "Dark Waters." It's a real arm pumper, and if you're looking for some powerful training mileage, this is one of the many cool option to try at "The New River Wall" bouldering cave.

The original problem moving right combined with the traverse back left finishing on "Dark Waters" is probably about (V9-V10). Maybe a little harder, but who cares, right...? This version is about the power pump.


Location 

Located at the "New River Wall" bouldering wall area just before tunnel 2. It's the cave just down and left of "Sonic Youth." The line pulls from a two handed under cling feature located right of "Dark Waters" and fairly close to the cave's main roof lip section.


Protection 

Pads and a spot.



Comments on Under Your Clings Add Comment
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By j.jaeger
Nov 18, 2009

For what it's worth, I had done this a while back. The late Ryan Sayers had done a similar line he called "Wet Carrot" (which is really a higher start to Formula 50, before Formula 50 had been climbed) and since this is essentially a harder variation, I referred to it as "More Wetter Carrot"... which I recognize is an awful name.

Thanks for adding this!

By j.jaeger
Nov 18, 2009

Is this the same thing that Wade describes as Deep Sea Angler?

Shomygod!

I guess it was an obvious variation.

By Andrew Vojslavek
Nov 22, 2009
rating: V6-7 7A+

Yeah it is JJ, not sure what is going on... but the same climb. No way this is V8, maybe even 7 is a stretch? I don't know....

Question: the Dark Waters stand, and trav out right is what like an 8ish? Just curious... thanks.

By j.jaeger
Nov 23, 2009

Yes. DW stand, traversing out right to the standard drop-off is the old "Than's Problem" which was given V8, though 7 seems to be where it has settled in.

Is there a way to have an automatic email notification if folks reply to threads?

By Andrew Vojslavek
Nov 23, 2009
rating: V6-7 7A+

I don't think that feature exists yet. Sort of a bummer. Missed you at Castlewood, also sort of a bummer, but what can you do? Hopefully see you soon, JJ!

By Luke Childers
Nov 23, 2009

I was sure that is variation had already been done.... I just did not see it posted and thought others would enjoy the info.... I think V7 is fair for sure. I suck at grading things. Anyway I thought this was a fun problem and for this wall it's a decent warm-up.

Still confused? Who F.A.'ed this and what was the 1st name the line ever received?? I will update the info I posted to reflect the correction and comments that have been made. Thanks everyone for your input.

Luke Childers

By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 23, 2009

Wet Carrot begins on the jug at the lip of the roof and heads right and up. It was put up by the guys guys who developed the easier stuff in the cave long before Dark Waters, Formula 50/500, etc, etc. Can't say for sure that JJ did it from the underclings first, but the lower problem which adds two moves was done by JJ in the infancy of the Dark Waters cave. He called it More Wetter Carrot, staying with the spirit of the original problem.

By Andrew Vojslavek
Nov 24, 2009
rating: V6-7 7A+

JJ had a pretty in depth guide to the New River Wall on his old blog, so does frontrangebouldering.com for those who are curious. I will try to get some photos up after my next visit to help distinguish the various lines.

Thanks to Luke for putting up a lot of the info on these climbs around the Front Range! Very much appreciated!

Andrew Vojslavek