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Lisa Falls Buttress
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Under the Skirt and Clip The Bush 
Where's Winky? 

Under the Skirt and Clip The Bush 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Calderone, Standifer
Page Views: 1,234
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 14, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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the route goes up the prow on the right side betwe...

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Description 

On the far right of the Lisa Falls area, is a wooded cove with a roof above it. This climbs a seam to a bolt on a slab, continues up a small steep section with another bolt above it. Then the fun stuff. Approach the roof from the right, locate the hidden bolt, clip it, and pull the roof. Finish up on an easy slab to the anchors by the tree. The 2nd pitch climbs up the face above.


Protection 

2 bolts at the top of the first pitch, 3 draws for the climb (Pitch 1). Gear for pitch 2. I never climbed it.



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By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jul 21, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

The roof is a great 2-3 move sequence! The rest is decent slab climbing but the roof is basically a bolted boulder problem. Definitely worth doing just for that. Well protected. It is a 10d if you move left over the roof, otherwise a 10b (as seen in the book)

EDIT: I'm wondering if the left route is considered RODAN?

By Alec
May 6, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Tyler -- Yes. It's a separate bolt line.

By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 11, 2013

How tall is the first pitch? It must be short with only 3 bolts to be well protected...25-30 feet? If it's longer, then it sounds runout. Is there places where gear is being plugged to compliment the 3 bolts on the first pitch?

By Mountain Dreamer
Mar 17, 2014

There are 3 variations to this route 5.10- to 5.10+.
Cams can be used between the bolts.