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Under the Radar S 

Under the Radar 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Patty Kline, April 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 987
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Apr 27, 2011

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Jefe high up on Under The Radar.

Description 

The second route from the left of four bolted routes.

Start a bit to the right, moving left to clip the first bolt, then climb thin edges (5.8) to easier slab climbing past 2 more Bolts. Traverse right across a dike, then straight up a steepening friction slab past 4 more bolts (5.8).

The rock is grainy, but improving with every ascent.

Protection 

7 bolts, 2-bolt anchor, 70 ft.


Photos of Under the Radar Slideshow Add Photo
Kelly Vaught on Under the Radar.
Kelly Vaught on Under the Radar.
Hidden Slab  A. Private Eye 5.10a B. Under the Rad...
BETA PHOTO: Hidden Slab A. Private Eye 5.10a B. Under the Rad...
Jefe getting ready to launch.
Jefe getting ready to launch.
John Mirales tied in.
John Mirales tied in.

Comments on Under the Radar Add Comment
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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 28, 2011

Another good route, which will clean up to be a well traveled and enjoyed route. Bob does it again....
By Mary Moser
May 18, 2011

Led this route last Saturday and it was surprisingly fun and very clean. My friend Cate was thrilled to do this on lead as an onsight!
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The bottom crux is edgy and crimpy, whereas the crux at the top is palmy and smeary. Good route, well protected and solid for this 5.8 toproper.

EDIT: Starting directly under the first bolt is edgy and crimpy, starting to the right is more typical of the route.
By Gavin Bridgeman
From: Tustin, California
Mar 8, 2014

Excellent slab climb that has fun movement.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 18, 2014

I thought the first two bolts were pseudo-difficult on pretty vertical rock. For sure eases on the upper 2/3 but great warm up to get your slab feet under you. Another great anchor placement on a safe ledge makes for easy pulls and cleaning. But glue-in's which I though was odd for the area and FA team. Solid though.
By Bob Gaines
Mar 22, 2014

Hi Susan. The reason for the glue-in anchor bolts: the rock is really bad at the spot I wanted the anchor. After I hand-drilled the holes I could slip the bolts in and out with my fingers....the glue-ins solved the problem, and they seem to be holding up well.
By Rob Stahl
Nov 10, 2014

Led this on 11/9/2014 with Robert Fonda. It was a lot of fun smearing. It has cleaned up a lot since I did after the Gordo Fest. All these routes are mostly in the shade this time year, and it was really comfortable. I did think the glued ring was odd, but I figured it was due to rock quality. REally convient and fun place to climb. Approach from the south and you can avoid some boulder hopping.