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The Long Wall
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Under the Milky Way 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 5,101
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Falling off near the top of this AMAZING pitch.

Description 

Under the Milky Way takes the blunt arete that marks the left end of the Long Wall. Perform a bouldery move to get started (nice to have a good spotter or stick clip), then continue up sustained and technical moves to a crux high on the route. Bolted anchor.


Protection 

10 draws or so.



Photos of Under the Milky Way Slideshow Add Photo
Thin stuff. <br />Photo: Greg Martin
Thin stuff.
Photo: Greg Martin
Clipping. <br />Photo: Greg Martin
Clipping.
Photo: Greg Martin
Under the Milky Way 11d Onsight- Elliot Gaunt
Under the Milky Way 11d Onsight- Elliot Gaunt
Clipping the chains for my Onsight
Clipping the chains for my Onsight
Taylor Gum near the top of Under the Milky Way.
Taylor Gum near the top of Under the Milky Way.
Beautiful February day at Summersville!
Beautiful February day at Summersville!
Comments on Under the Milky Way Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sam Stephens
May 3, 2010

Bouldery start, technical (and thin) face and arete climbing, and a slightly pumpy finish that will catch you off guard if this is your limit. Great climbing.

By Joseph Stamps
Sep 29, 2011

Very Awesome. Boulder problem, thin stuff, exposure, radness.

By Brian Adzima
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Mar 12, 2012

A stick clip would have been a good idea. I survived the route, I barely survived my wife.

By tanner jones
Nov 24, 2013

it's been several years since i did this thing... and i still think about it.