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Ridge 4 aka Mohling Arete
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Anthem To the Sun T 
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Under The Influence T 

Under The Influence 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: B. Horan and J. Baldwin, 1982
Season: Faces West
Page Views: 329
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 9, 2006

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Jason Haas on the wide but well-protected crux roo...

  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This would be 3-star route if the "black hole" quality of the first 20 meters were not so powerful. But as it is, the beginning sucked the stars out of the top half. The crux of this climb up top is actually reasonably protected and on solid rock, but getting to it is pretty loose rock and is virtually unprotected.

    Climb up the right side of the corner in the right facing dihedral- going further right will only make the rock worse and the pro non-existent. Continue up to low-angle rock and work to the right below the stunning crack above.

    Go right of the crack onto a face hold and reach up to the gear in the eh lowest part of the crack. This is probably 5.9+, S. Get a hold up in the first pod of the roof and pull up into the roof on decent jams and holds to get more gear (5.10) then work your way up into the roof and through it. Footwork is key, as you can really take weight off your arms if you are vigilant to do so. Place 2-3" cams to the end of the crack, place a #4 Camalot and get onto the lip. (5.11) Pull the lip with style or awkward, whatever you find (I found one no-hands up there) and then onto the slab (5.11 again). Go up and right below a second roof and finish to the top, where you can scramble down to the east. Walk north 50 meters, then cut back west through a notch and gully to return to the base.

    Location 

    Near the top of the West face of Ridge four, perhaps 400 meters up, and just past the rotten cave of 'Anthem To The Sun' is a right-facing corner with trash rock on the right side for the first 20 meters. Above that there is a brief slab, then an off-width splitting a large roof, perhaps 3 meters long on good rock. This is 'Under The Influence.'

    Protection 

    Gear from 2" to a #4 Camalot in the crux roof, plus whatever you think might hold before that.


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