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Lower Grotto Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Before There Were Nine S 
Coldfusion T 
Crime Victim S 
Cryogenics T 
Engagement, The S 
Espresso Love S 
Grotto Wall Traverse T 
Headless Crankin' Chicken S 
Headless Franken Chicken S 
Insurrection S 
Knuckle Head, The S 
Mad Arab T 
One for the Road S 
Pea Brain S 
Scene of the Crime S 
Space Sluts in the Slammer S 
Stage Fright S 
Stand By Your Van T,S 
Stranger Than Fiction T,S 
Tarzan S 
Twin Cracks T 
Under Pressure S 
Under Pressure - Extension S 
Unknown 13b? S 
Victims of Fashion T,S 
Wire and Fire T,S 
YQ T,TR 

Under Pressure - Extension 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Chris Kalous
Page Views: 120
Submitted By: Alvaro Arnal on Jun 4, 2013

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Description 

This extension to Under Pressure adds some exposed climbing high off the ground and a one-move wonder dyno crux to reach the top of Lower Grotto Wall. While you can split this climb up into 2 separate pitches, I suggest running the pitches together into one mega pitch as the first anchor isn't the most comfortable to hang out and belay from and there is a great rest stance right before the 12b crux. If linking the pitches together, extend the last bolt and anchor of the first pitch with long runners to reduce rope drag.

From the p1 anchor, make a rightward traverse with powerful undercling moves past the first bolt and a great rest. Reach high to clip the 2nd bolt and immediately into the crux, which is followed by a hand jam and fat undercling rest. Easier climbing gets you to the anchor at the top of the wall; the terrain between the last bolt and the anchor is protectable with a 1" cam.

LOWERING: Because of the traversing nature of the climb, it's easiest to bring up your second and then walk off. With a 60 meter rope, it's also possible to lower off to the p1 anchor (tram in while cleaning), re-thread the rope through the anchor and lower off again. A 70 meter rope will just barely get you to the ground from the p2 anchor; tie a knot in the end!

Location 

This is an extension pitch to Under Pressure, which starts just right of Twin Cracks.

Protection 

4 bolts, optional 1" cam; chain anchor.


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