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Horseshoe Canyon
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Uncomfortably Dumb 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Aaron Rough
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,949
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Oct 16, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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nearing the 5th or 6th bolt

Auburn Quarry Open Daily 'til Sundown! MORE INFO >>>


Climb up the diheadral and then out onto a face. This is third bolted route from the left in Horseshoe canyon, and is one of the easier routes to track down. If you walk up the hillside to on of the 12's and look back, the top face sticks out quite well.

A good route with lots of interesting secitons for all abilities, and you may find a couple of the top bolts a little unnecessary. The top 20 or so feet is a cakwalk after exiting the diheadral.

I (5'9") thought this was a HARD 5.10a, because I can't reach the outside of the dihedral, unlike Jared (6'3"). The route became quite a balancing act for me, and seemed quite a different route to watch Jared climb.


9 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

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By mike carville
Mar 27, 2013

cool corner - probably worth sorting out/moving the bolt placements down low???
By tresa black
Apr 23, 2013

I really liked this route. Total chick route!! No strength involved, just good technique...super fun thanks Aaron!
By Brennen T
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Jun 12, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

agreed with sorting bolt placing down, seems like the bolts are close when you dont need them are the spaced where it seems a little scary
By Colin Szehner
From: Oakland, Ca
Sep 25, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Pulled the cruz with a crazy high downturned right knee. Extreme value for .10a :|
By Logan Swartz
From: Davis, CA
Nov 25, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It is not that scary so probably not worth the effort of changing bolts. My favorite route at the Quarry. Cool crystals and cracks on the top part.
By Vlad S
Feb 23, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

If the 2nd bolt was a foot lower and clippable from the ledge it would actually protect the crux of the route. With the first bolt 5 feet off the ground you essentially have to solo the crux, since if you blow it or the big jug/flake on the right arete gets any looser, I guarantee you - you will deck.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Feb 23, 2015

2nd bolt is a tough clip if you are short. A stick clip or a stiff draw is a good idea.
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