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The Bear
Routes Sorted
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Bear Arete, The 
Bear Crack, The 
Bear Cub Crack 
Bear Fingers 
Bear's Choice 
Beast of Burden 
Beast, The 
Black Hole Sun 
Body Snatcher 
Jason and the Argonauts 
Jekyll and Hyde 
Just Bearly 
Kill Uncle 
Lower Arete 
Mark's Moderate 
Napa Valley Party Service 
Old And In The Way 
Polar Bear Spire 
Silverado Squatters 
Smash n Grab 
Stone Free 
Swallow My Pride 
Theodore Roosevelt 
Treasure Island 
Uncle Tom 
Ursa Major 
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack 
Wayne's World 
Unsorted Routes:

Uncle Tom 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 161
Submitted By: Caliza on Mar 20, 2013
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Start to the right of Kill Uncle on Lower Arete and traverses into and continues on Kill Uncle after the first bolt. The traverse is probably the crux of this variation. Going left at the 3rd bolt gives a mellow finish; whereas, trying to go directly up or slightly right at third bolt bumps up the grade to 11d or 12a.


4 bolts to chains. Make sure and have an extended draw for first bolt to reduce rope drag. Stick-clipping first is recommended.

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By Caliza
Jun 14, 2013

Did this by using the big jug above the first clip on the arÍte then down-climbing and traversing to the left to the second bolt. I've done this route twice, first time I exited left of the 3rd bolt using the good right hand pinch and pretty much joining the finish of Swallow My Pride. The second time I finished the route by staying true to the bolt line. I exited directly above the 3rd bolt avoiding going left to Swallow My Pride and used a thin not too obvious right-hand undercling slightly left of the 3rd bolt and did a big left-hand throw directly above the same clip. Felt this finishing variation was a lot harder and feel comfortable calling it 12a. I think the direct start, Kill Uncle, with the latter finish would definitely be 12c and probably the hardest climb at the crag.