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 ADVANCED
The Bear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bear Arete, The S 
Bear Crack, The T 
Bear Cub Crack T 
Bear Fingers T 
Bear's Choice S 
Beast of Burden S 
Beast, The T 
Black Hole Sun S 
Body Snatcher S 
Jason and the Argonauts S,TR 
Jekyll and Hyde S 
Just Bearly T 
Kidnapped S 
Kill Uncle S,TR 
Kodiak S 
Lower Arete S,TR 
Mark's Moderate T,S 
Napa Valley Party Service S 
Old And In The Way S 
Polar Bear Spire S 
Rampage S 
Silverado Squatters S 
Smash n Grab S 
Stone Free S 
Swallow My Pride S 
Theodore Roosevelt S,TR 
Treasure Island S 
Uncle Tom S 
Ursa Major T 
Ursa Minor, aka: Guillotine Crack T 
Wayne's World S 
Unsorted Routes:

Uncle Tom 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 246
Submitted By: Caliza on Mar 20, 2013

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Description 

Start to the right of Kill Uncle on Lower Arete and traverses into and continues on Kill Uncle after the first bolt. The traverse is probably the crux of this variation. Going left at the 3rd bolt gives a mellow finish; whereas, trying to go directly up or slightly right at third bolt bumps up the grade to 11d or 12a.

Protection 

4 bolts to chains. Make sure and have an extended draw for first bolt to reduce rope drag. Stick-clipping first is recommended.


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By Caliza
Jun 14, 2013

Did this by using the big jug above the first clip on the arÍte then down-climbing and traversing to the left to the second bolt. I've done this route twice, first time I exited left of the 3rd bolt using the good right hand pinch and pretty much joining the finish of Swallow My Pride. The second time I finished the route by staying true to the bolt line. I exited directly above the 3rd bolt avoiding going left to Swallow My Pride and used a thin not too obvious right-hand undercling slightly left of the 3rd bolt and did a big left-hand throw directly above the same clip. Felt this finishing variation was a lot harder and feel comfortable calling it 12a. I think the direct start, Kill Uncle, with the latter finish would definitely be 12c and probably the hardest climb at the crag.