|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Caliza on Mar 20, 2013|
|Comments on Uncle Tom||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Jun 14, 2013
|Did this by using the big jug above the first clip on the arÍte then down-climbing and traversing to the left to the second bolt. I've done this route twice, first time I exited left of the 3rd bolt using the good right hand pinch and pretty much joining the finish of Swallow My Pride. The second time I finished the route by staying true to the bolt line. I exited directly above the 3rd bolt avoiding going left to Swallow My Pride and used a thin not too obvious right-hand undercling slightly left of the 3rd bolt and did a big left-hand throw directly above the same clip. Felt this finishing variation was a lot harder and feel comfortable calling it 12a. I think the direct start, Kill Uncle, with the latter finish would definitely be 12c and probably the hardest climb at the crag.|
From: Vacaville Ca.
Nov 30, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Why can't we just call this route what it is? 5.12A. 5.11d maybe if you want to go for the "I've got all the moves totally wired" grade.
Kill Uncle start too. I may have indulged in too much stuffing and Halloween candy lately, but .12b it is not. Much harder.
By J. Albers
Nov 30, 2014
|Agreed Sal about the grade on Kill Uncle...others state much the same in the comments for that route. Can't remember this one though, however you are likely correct.|