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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Baby T 
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Bloody Mary T 
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Patty Duke T 
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Scungilli T 
Sixish T 
Size Matters T 
Son of Easy O T 
Sultana T 
Sundown T 
Trusty Rifle T 
Twisted Sister T 
Uncle Rudy T 
Wrist T 

Uncle Rudy 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike and Pete Werner, 1975
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: Kurtz on Sep 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: The start of Uncle Rudy

Description 

This route has some good climbing but does not get a lot of traffic so it's a bit dirty. It's an option if Bloody Bush and Wrist are busy but, be warned, Uncle Rudy is a distinct notch more difficult and run-out.

P1: Climb up and place a bomber piece or two below the roof. Get your feet up and go for the good horizontal just out of reach. Pull the roof and plug the #4 (crux). Continue up and belay at the the tree of your choice. (50 ft. G)


P2: Move up the face on dirty, thin holds with scattered pro. The crux is midway where there's a run-out move with particularly thin hands. Escape left to Bloody Bush if spooked. Belay on the same big ledge as P1 of Bloody Bush. (60 ft. PG-R)

P3: Climb the big right-facing corner above the belay, staying right to avoid the obvious fractured rock, and exit left at the roof. Continue up and move right around an overhang. Then straight up to a tree belay. Road noise makes hearing difficult. Plan accordingly. (100 ft. G)

Location 

Between Bloody Bush and Wrist. Look for a short right-facing corner with a small crack above that leads to a small roof 20 ft. up.

To descend, move right 25 ft. and downclimb to the Bloody Bush rappel trees -or- walk 75 ft. right to the chains above Ribs. Double 60m will reach. There are intermediate rapp stations if you're rapping with a single rope.

Protection 

A #4 Camalot protects above the roof on P1. The pro on P1 and 2 is a bit thin and widely spaced in places. Doubles are a good idea and make the rappel faster.


Photos of Uncle Rudy Slideshow Add Photo
Natasha prepares for the big move on P1.
Natasha prepares for the big move on P1.
Natasha wishing she brought that #4 Camalot.
Natasha wishing she brought that #4 Camalot.

Comments on Uncle Rudy Add Comment
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By SethG
Sep 16, 2013

Hey good job posting this description. I have climbed pitches one and three and I just want to add two points to your excellent description.

1. The big horizontal after the roof on P1 narrows to the right. You don't need a big cam, I think I used a gray Alien. Just look over to the right.

2. Pitch one is okay, but pitch three is excellent! It is a great choice if you are on the GT ledge after doing anything in the area, for example Drunkards or Morning After.
By Gunkiemike
Sep 25, 2013

I've done this route a couple times. The first time I didn't have a big cam for P1, and the dirty (but easy) moves up to the trees were X rated groundfall territory. Inspired by this description and photos here, I climbed it again yesterday. With the #4 cam. I saw nothing in that spot that would take anything small. If you are going far enough right to place a grey Alien, you are probably doing a whole lot more work than you need to. A grey UNDER the overhang, pre-crux, does fit perfectly however; maybe that's what you remember?

P2 is indeed pretty heady, and having run away from it last time, it was one of the reasons I wanted to get on it again yesterday.
By SethG
Sep 25, 2013

Sorry, mike, but I disagree. It was at the horizontal ABOVE the roof. No extra work, just an arm's reach to the right.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Oct 14, 2013

I have to go with Seth here. I found a place after the roof for a small cam, and I didn't need to work hard or stretch too far.
By Gunkiemike
Oct 15, 2013

OK, I yield to my more observant brethren. In my defense, if you're packin' a #4 on this pitch, you don't tend to look around for smaller cracks!
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

While a little dirty, this climb is excellent if you've been around the block with some of the more popular 5.7s. It's a really nice to link the first two pitches but be careful because if you do this and blow it at the pitch 2 crux, you're looking at a 30+ footer into trees and a ledge.