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This route has some good climbing but does not get a lot of traffic so it's a bit dirty. It's an option if Bloody Bush and Wrist are busy but, be warned, Uncle Rudy is a distinct notch more difficult and run-out.
P1: Climb up and place a bomber piece or two below the roof. Get your feet up and go for the good horizontal just out of reach. Pull the roof and plug the #4 (crux). Continue up and belay at the the tree of your choice. (50 ft. G)
P2: Move up the face on dirty, thin holds with scattered pro. The crux is midway where there's a run-out move with particularly thin hands. Escape left to Bloody Bush if spooked. Belay on the same big ledge as P1 of Bloody Bush. (60 ft. PG-R)
P3: Climb the big right-facing corner above the belay, staying right to avoid the obvious fractured rock, and exit left at the roof. Continue up and move right around an overhang. Then straight up to a tree belay. Road noise makes hearing difficult. Plan accordingly. (100 ft. G)
Between Bloody Bush and Wrist. Look for a short right-facing corner with a small crack above that leads to a small roof 20 ft. up.
To descend, move right 25 ft. and downclimb to the Bloody Bush rappel trees -or- walk 75 ft. right to the chains above Ribs. Double 60m will reach. There are intermediate rapp stations if you're rapping with a single rope.
A #4 Camalot protects above the roof on P1. The pro on P1 and 2 is a bit thin and widely spaced in places. Doubles are a good idea and make the rappel faster.
Natasha prepares for the big move on P1.
Natasha wishing she brought that #4 Camalot.
Sep 16, 2013
Hey good job posting this description. I have climbed pitches one and three and I just want to add two points to your excellent description.
1. The big horizontal after the roof on P1 narrows to the right. You don't need a big cam, I think I used a gray Alien. Just look over to the right.
2. Pitch one is okay, but pitch three is excellent! It is a great choice if you are on the GT ledge after doing anything in the area, for example Drunkards or Morning After.
Sep 25, 2013
I've done this route a couple times. The first time I didn't have a big cam for P1, and the dirty (but easy) moves up to the trees were X rated groundfall territory. Inspired by this description and photos here, I climbed it again yesterday. With the #4 cam. I saw nothing in that spot that would take anything small. If you are going far enough right to place a grey Alien, you are probably doing a whole lot more work than you need to. A grey UNDER the overhang, pre-crux, does fit perfectly however; maybe that's what you remember?
P2 is indeed pretty heady, and having run away from it last time, it was one of the reasons I wanted to get on it again yesterday.
Sep 25, 2013
Sorry, mike, but I disagree. It was at the horizontal ABOVE the roof. No extra work, just an arm's reach to the right.
|By Dana Bartlett|
Oct 14, 2013
I have to go with Seth here. I found a place after the roof for a small cam, and I didn't need to work hard or stretch too far.
Oct 15, 2013
OK, I yield to my more observant brethren. In my defense, if you're packin' a #4 on this pitch, you don't tend to look around for smaller cracks!