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Uncle Remus 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Craig McClenahan, Phil Bone, and Danny Keebler, 1991 (Falcon)
Page Views: 348
Submitted By: Wilcher Aaron on Sep 29, 2005  with updates from Adal Bermann

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Description 

First route at the top of the trail at the end of the scree field. Two routes to the left is Wing of Bat. This route is distinguished by its two variation start that connects together.

Again, there is a rated-R direct variation that offers one bolt for the first 25 feet or so and then links up with the main climb. The left variation is safer, with three or four bolts down low, but offers only 5.8-5.9 climbing for those first 25 feet. I didn't do the R section, so I can't comment on the features there. It looks a little steeper and harder than the left way.

Excellent moves up higher through a series of traverses and longish moves off round pinches(a Welcome Wall standard feature, the pinch with a thumb catch or the pinch with a crimper edge), crimpers, and sidepulls.

There are some great places to stem across and take weight off your arms. The bolting protects the climb just fine and the route is sustained and technical for fifty or sixty feet.

Finally, there is an airy crux up high to the anchors. Totally safe fall. You have to climb past the anchor to a big hand jam-undercling thing, then you can finally clip. Bouldery sequence here, making it 11b, V2/3 for me. Best climb of the day. Sick, guy.

Comments?

Protection 

Nine bolts to two-bolt chain anchor.

NOTE: Chain and the anchor bolts are mega rusty and needs replacing.

There is a rated-R direct variation that offers one bolt for the first 25 feet or so. The left variation is safer, with three or four bolts down low, but offers only 5.8-5.9 climbing for those first 25 feet.

For the left way, use an extended runner to reduce rope drag.


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By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Dec 21, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Did this route last year.

I felt that it was a bit easier than other .11a's in the area. Much of it is lower angle which provides for better rests than many of the other 5.11's in the area. I also disagree with the bit about the route being sustained, from what I remember, only the top 3/4 of the route were sustained (steeper) and definitely a few tricky moves.
By Adal Bermann
From: San Francisco, California
Jun 2, 2014

This climb is classic as it progressively goes from an easy 5.5 positive scramble to a challenging overhung technical climb with slippery hand holds.

HOWEVER, some of the bolts, and especially the top two anchor bolts are in such poor condition that I strongly discourage anyone from climbing it again until it gets fixed. That's why I gave it a Bomb rating for now, which I will gladly update when it's re-bolted.