Uncle Fester 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10d [details] |
| FA: | Kevin Powell, Randy Vogel, Rob Raker, Darryl Nakahira - May 1983 |
| Submitted By: | M.Morley on Sep 25, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: "Uncle Fester".
Photo by Blitzo.
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Description The crux lies in the first 10' of climbing with fingerlocks and poor feet. Eases to 5.8 after that. Small TCU's will protect down low (purple/blue TCU). Walk off to the west.
Protection Light rack. Small TCU's (purple/blue) protect the crux.
Robb Kulin starts Uncle Fester.
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Fred Batliner follows on Uncle Fester.
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By Steven Powers
Oct 26, 2003
| to make this climb even better you can link it to the 10+ arete above i belive it has three bolts, make for a very enjoyable climb although the arete is a little heads up. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 21, 2007
rating: 5.10d
| Liebacking the crack (facing left) gets one quickly and easily past the crux; agreed that jamming it without tiny fingers would make it much harder. |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.10d
| Short but sweet. I liebacked the starting moves until you can get your feet under you, and then transitioned to a straight-in position. |
By BenCooper
From: Olympia, WA
Dec 11, 2008
rating: 5.10d
| I didn't know what this was when I saw it, just that it looked beautiful. Perfect splitter from tiny tips to beautiful hands. With my sausage links, it was very hard off the deck. Well worth doing if you're in the area. |
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