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Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face
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Uncle Fester 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Kevin Powell, Randy Vogel, Rob Raker, Darryl Nakahira - May 1983
Page Views: 1,106
Submitted By: M.Morley on Sep 25, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Robb Kulin starts Uncle Fester.


The crux lies in the first 10' of climbing with fingerlocks and poor feet. Eases to 5.8 after that. Small TCU's will protect down low (purple/blue TCU). Walk off to the west.


Light rack. Small TCU's (purple/blue) protect the crux.

Photos of Uncle Fester Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Uncle Fester". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Uncle Fester". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fred Batliner follows on Uncle Fester.
Fred Batliner follows on Uncle Fester.

Comments on Uncle Fester Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steven Powers
Oct 26, 2003

to make this climb even better you can link it to the 10+ arete above i belive it has three bolts, make for a very enjoyable climb although the arete is a little heads up.
By C Miller
Feb 21, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Liebacking the crack (facing left) gets one quickly and easily past the crux; agreed that jamming it without tiny fingers would make it much harder.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Short but sweet. I liebacked the starting moves until you can get your feet under you, and then transitioned to a straight-in position.
By BenCooper
Dec 11, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I didn't know what this was when I saw it, just that it looked beautiful. Perfect splitter from tiny tips to beautiful hands. With my sausage links, it was very hard off the deck. Well worth doing if you're in the area.
By Ben Horton
Mar 20, 2014

Short and sweet. I have huge hands, and don't get my fingers in until after the horizontal. Gear is small but solid.

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