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 ADVANCED
Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
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96 Degrees S 
Almost Blue S 
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 
Buttercup S 
Deputy, The S 
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Duran's Pharmacy S 
Full Penetration S 
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Insider Trading S 
Little Caterpillar S 
New Kids on the Block S 
Red Tag Sale S 
Sinister Dane S 
Spreadlock Holiday S 
Too High for Bry S 
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 
Unknown Lance Route S 
Window Shopping S 

Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 336
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Feb 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This short powerful route is more sustained than it looks and has solid rock making it worth doing when your not sure what else to get on.

Start in a rounded dihedral and head up to the first bolt, make a hard bouldery reach out right to a key crimp and work up into a slopey hueco. A positive pocket or a higher jug work well for clipping the second bolt. Work up into the large hueco, clip the third bolt or fourth bolt and make a large reach for jugs on the ledge above.

Apparently at one time there were only 3 bolts, there are now 4, maybe the fourth is for accessing the new route above the ledge. I clipped all of them and topped out above the 4th bolt.

Can be used as access for the new route above.

Location 

Far left side of Dirt Wall, Just left of the start for Almost Blue. Starts in a rounded corner. There is another route starting to the left called "Uncle Fester gets Sent in Europe" that is 12c, and some linkup getting a 13a.

Protection 

4 Bolts to Anchors


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By Brototype
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 4, 2012

I actually really enjoyed this climb. Though it's quite short, the movement is good and fairly sustained until you clip the last bolt before heading to the chains. The "third" bolt out left is on a separate route and not worth clipping as it will put you a little out of sequence for the move into the under-cling pocket. Would be a great route if it were longer.