Uncle Fanny 

This is a heck of a squeeze job even for being super skinny like me. Best bet was to keep my right side facing the chimney and inching up from there. If nobody is on the Lieback, go that route instead.

I agree. This was the most brutal and unnecessary 5.7 ever.

Even Don Reid warns about Yosemite being a valley of demanding cracks. I think he saved it for the topo of this pitch. The fact is that it has smooth granite with perfect chimney/squeeze/offwidth moves. You can take a no hands rest after every move on the bottom of this climb. Just look at the picture and you will see the solid foot-to-knee jams for the outside leg. Also, look at the perfect elbo-to-palm jam for the outside arm. You can get this jam on the inside as well. Just make sure the elbo is above the palm. You can really move off this jam exclusively while resting on the knee-to-foot. Do this one left side in, and remember to only move a couple of inches at a time. After practicing your technique, the hardest part will be picking the leaves out of the hand jams on the top half of the pitch. Enjoy!!!

After grunting through the first squeeze chimney and nearly getting stuck (I'm 5'10"; right shoulder in worked best), I stepped right onto the face and found the face/crack climbing to the right of the gully MUCH more enjoyable and well protected. If you plan to lead up through the gully without running it out, it looks like you'll need an ample arsenal of 1-2" gear, more than I had available.

Easier than the 5.7 OW on Crescent Crack in Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT, with better pro too! Awkward enough to get you working, but once you figure out a ratcheting sequence, it's not too bad and never insecure. I spent more time deciding which side to put in than on figuring out any later moves (ultimately I chose left-side in).

Interesting climb... I had a hard time doing standard chimney moves since I'm 6'2".... Lot's of heal-toe & chicken wing moves for me. Great climb to work on this technique. It's a lot easier if you're harness is not full of gear (like most tight climbs)

BITD when I climbed this route, I did something similar to Floyd Hayes and abandoned the chimbey for some pleasant crack and flake climbing to the right. It's much nicer that way! I was able to use entirely passive pro as well. The chimney is a real grunt.

If you are looking for sweet chimney action, do not abandon the chimney. A hand crack in the back and some heel-toeing will get you up to the final finger crack in no time. Very protectable as far as chimneys are concerned.