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End Pinnacle
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Unsorted Routes:

Uncarved Block 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 480', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ray Ringle and Chip Chase, Summer 1980
Season: Late Summer/Early Fall
Page Views: 1,174
Submitted By: Geir on Oct 2, 2012

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Pitch 2: the gnarly offwidth mantle

Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Crazy slab moves, hard grooves, stunning features, killer crack climbing, a "thank God" mono pocket, tricky gear ... this climb has it all!

One of its incredible features is the Uncarved Block itself, a huge slice of rock that calved off the dome long ago creating an amazing belay stance and its stellar third pitch.

Uncarved Block is seldom repeated, perhaps partly owing to its reputation for its old hardware, stiff climbing, and runout 4th pitch. Fortunately, thanks to the ASCA, the old bolts have been replaced, and modern gear takes a bit of the sting out of the 4th pitch. The result is that this exceptional route is now a little safer for those wanting to repeat old-school, hardman Stronghold classics.

The first three pitches are generally well protected and definitely worth repeating even if pushing your limits on the 4th pitch isn't in the cards. The first pitch has committing, tricky slab and groove climbing. The second pitch transfers the belay onto the Uncarved Block itself (which is awesome). The third pitch is a fantastic crack and corner system extending high onto End Pinnacle. It is easy to rappel from this point into the descent from End Pinnacle (160')

The fourth pitch is both serious and stunning. It starts in a steep, difficult-to-protect groove and continues to a beautiful crack, committing face moves, and runout slab. Its ground-up first ascent with 1980 gear and shoes is an example of some of the boldest Stronghold leads.

Pitch 1 (130', 5.11) - Start at the base of the slab directly under the last rappel from the End Pinnacle descent and the Uncarved Block. Climb straight up to a small roof with a bolt to its right (tricky pro on 5.10 terrain). Angle up and right past a second bolt and into a groove. Follow the groove up and left past a third bolt. Once on easy ground, traverse directly right to a stance under the tip of the Uncarved Block.

Pitch 2 (40', 5.10+) - Execute a hard mantle/OW move on to the block and move the belay to a hole at the back of the block.

Pitch 3 (150', 5.11) - Climb the stellar crack until it seams out. Step a bit to the left and work up 20' on easy face moves until it is possible to return to the crack where it opens back up. Continue up the crack/groove to a three bolt anchor.

Variation: (150', 5.9) - From the belay stance move up and left on the block to the arete. Climb the arete clipping two bolts and placing occasional gear. Arrive at the same three bolt anchor as described above.

It is possible to rap 160' straight down into the End Pinnacle descent if you want to avoid the final pitch.

Pitch 4 (120', 5.11R) - Work up the 5.11 groove with only tiny gear and a flared cam for protection. Gain a beautiful crack with better gear and follow it to a bolt on the right. Continue directly right from the bolt to easier ground, then run it out up the slab past a second bolt to a narrow ledge. Body belay on the ledge next to a tiny tree backed up by a bomber new bolt about 6' above the ledge.

Pitch 5 (40', 5.10 A0) - Aid past two new bolts and make a slab move or two to easy ground. Body belay in the huge bowl above or tie off a large feature on the left.

Variation: from the belay step right, make a committing move up and clip a bolt. Then make a few slab moves up to the bowl (5.10).

Location 

From the approach to End Pinnacle, hike up and left along the bottom of the cliff about 200 feet. Look for the Uncarved Block about 100' above. The start is directly under the last rappels for the descent from End Pinnacle.

Protection 

Doubles from tiny cams (black Alien or equivalent) to #1 Camalot. Triples of #2 and #3 Camalot, two #4 Camalots. Stoppers including an assortment of small ones. Ball nuts are very helpful on pitch 4.

If you are interested in a topo for this route, feel free to PM me and I will send you one. You can also get one by registering at the toofasttopos website.


Photos of Uncarved Block Slideshow Add Photo
Some of the old hardware that was replaced.  Dave Merin replaced the hardware on Pitches 1-3; Corrie Ellison and I replaced the hardware on Pitches 4-5.
Some of the old hardware that was replaced. Dave ...
Clay setting up for pitch 1
Clay setting up for pitch 1
Andy Bennett at the top of Pitch 3
Andy Bennett at the top of Pitch 3
Pitch 3
Pitch 3
Photo of the route from a distance.  Belay stances highlighted in red.
Photo of the route from a distance. Belay stances...
Looking down from Pitch 3 (midway up)
Looking down from Pitch 3 (midway up)
View from the belay at the bottom of pitch 3
View from the belay at the bottom of pitch 3
Pitch 1 through the trees
Pitch 1 through the trees
Start of Pitch 4
Start of Pitch 4
Looking down from the groove midway up pitch 1
Looking down from the groove midway up pitch 1
View of pitches 3 and 4 from Rockfellow Dome
View of pitches 3 and 4 from Rockfellow Dome

Comments on Uncarved Block Add Comment
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By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Oct 2, 2012

So THAT's what you guys were up to.. :) Seriously, great job on the write up and thanks for submitting this Geir. Big salute to you for the hardware work up there! Thank you ~d
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 2, 2012

Hahaha thanks Daryl!! We still have to clean up pitch one - there is a some dirt and kitty litter on it, but I think it can be cleaned up really well. Otherwise the climb is in prime shape now.
By Clay Mansfield
Oct 2, 2012

This climb is badass. It follows a beautiful, natural line up End Pinnacle and there are not too many spots with trivial climbing. As Geir mentioned, if the intimidating fourth pitch is not in the cards, the first 3 pitches are awesome.

Kudos to Geir for:
1) replacing the old hardware

2) having the commitment to head up to the base of the 4th pitch 4 different times

3) having the stones to lead pitch 4, which involves hard, insecure climbing above small, questionable gear right off the belay. I think the first legit good piece was after the solid .11 climbing and 25 feet up.


The Rockfellow Group is truly a special place.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 2, 2012

Thanks Clay for the great belay and for leading pitches 1&3 so I could get psyched for pitch 4! You rock man.

Thanks to Dave Merin who replaced the hardware on pitches 1&3.
By Josh Janes
Dec 3, 2012

So is this route A0 (last pitch) or does it go completely free?
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 3, 2012

Hey Josh,

There is a one-bolt free variation 10 feet to the right of the A0 pitch. :)