This route is located on the face to the left of the first pitch of The Side Wall about halfway up the West Ridge. Climb up about 12 ft. in the corner of The Side Wall and then pull up and left following a series of underclings (crux). Follow a dihedral to the anchors. A fun toprope or a scary and strenuous lead. The holds are good, but the moves are reachy and the feet poor at the crux. This pitch felt harder and was definitely more pumpy than the first pitch of The Side Wall. There is a fun face climb to the left of this that is easily toproped as well (no name). It seemed to be in the hard 5.11 range somewhere.
Easily toproped from the anchor on top of the first pitch of Sidewall (that's what I did). Otherwise, it looks like you could get some small to midsize cams in the underclings.
This route is definitely not X-rated, although a fall low on the route could be dangerous if a piece pulled. I got a cam behind a thin flake/undercling to protect the first moves getting out of the Sidewall corner. Above that, the flake becomes thicker and the gear seemed much more bomber. Link this with False Prophet for a killer 120' pitch. -Scott
By Chris Archer Apr 14, 2009 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a R
Oh man... sorry to see that picture, Scott. Hope your recovery is quick and look fw to seeing you back in Eldo.
By adam brink From: Boulder, CO Apr 14, 2009 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a PG13
Scott, I'm so sorry man! I guess I was wrong about that flake and gear. Did you fall from very far above the flake? My thoughts are with you and I hope you have a fast recovery. That route is now probably a lot harder and way more dangerous.
Thanks guys, I guess I was wrong about the pitch as well.... I fell with my left hand in the next undercling, about to place the next piece (a green Alien, which I think is pretty good). Yeah, I'd be interested to hear if it feels harder now. I guess it's not really more dangerous, since the cam behind the flake was bound to blow sooner or later, but you'll have to get more creative with the other gear now. Perhaps double ropes, one clipped through the good TCU in the Sidewall corner, would make the lead a bit safer. -Scott
By Steve Annecone From: boulder Oct 16, 2009 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a R
Just TR'd this yesterday and it's waaay harder than before the flake broke.... I'd guess it's now 12a or possibly harder. The formerly sizable undercling is now a much harder to reach, one or two finger "undercling" on the far left side of where the flake broke. It's probably that much harder to lead safely now too. But still a fun and powerful TR for sure!
By adam brink From: Boulder, CO Jan 16, 2010 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a PG13
11d R now would be my guess. With some tinkering, there might be some gear, but it would be very thin.