Great looking right-facing corner. Starts with a few feet of hands and quickly slims down. There are a few pods for a tight-hand jam and a "rest". The crux is a short section where the crack pinches down to tips.
Route starts on the right side of the wall, just a little farther to the right of Broken Tooth. Can't miss this corner.
A selection of pieces in the fingers to tight-hands range (purple to green Camalots, a blue Alien). Some hand pieces as well (red and gold Camalots).
Climber just below the Crux
Matt Pesce sending Unbelievable in great style
|By Alex Shainman|
From: the best place right now!
Nov 15, 2007
A concentration of .5 and .75 Camalots with a #3 at the start and a #3 to protect the OW flare move at the finish. One purple TCU adequately protects the crux move without blocking the holds and be sure to have a couple 1 and 2 Camalots as well.
|By Scott Bennett|
Nov 6, 2009
Great climb: steep pumpy corner to a big move. Nothing smaller than a purple camalot is needed, the small cam that you might place at the crux is bad (I ripped a blue alien), pumpy to place, and just a foot or two above a bomber finger-sized cam.
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Oct 25, 2012
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
This is a mega classic for sure! It had Steve Hong hangers so I'm assuming thats who got the FA?
|By Josh Ewing|
From: Bluff, UT
Nov 26, 2012
A clean 5.11 corner with one or two hard moves (well protected). This is on my list for anchor replacement...but let me know if you get there first.