Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cliffs of Insanity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are There Rocks Ahead  T 
As you wish T 
Back to the Beginning T 
Broken Brain T 
Brute Squad T 
cave route  T 
Dirty Spaniard, The T 
Fairy Dust T 
Farm Boy T 
Fezzik  T 
Fire Swamp, The T 
Funny Farm T 
Gilder T 
Hors D~oeuvres T 
I've Seen Worse T 
Inconceivable T 
Inigo Montoya T 
Iocane Powder T 
Iron Lady Tower, The T 
jew fro an a boner T 
Jumping the Shark T 
Lobotomy T 
M.C.'s Hammer T 
Man In Black T 
Mawwage T 
Nurse Rachet T 
Nutter T 
Offwidth Your Head T 
Prepare To Die T 
Prince Humperdinky T 
Princess Buttercup T 
Puzzle Factory T 
R.O.U.S T 
Six Fingerd Man T 
Storming the Castle T 
Str8 Jacket T 
To The Pain T 
True Love T 
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 
Unknown 10+ T 
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 
Vinciny T 
Wiggins I T 
Wiggins II T 
Unsorted Routes:

Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,459
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on Nov 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The route.

Description 

Great splitter hands that pitches you out of the crack a lot. Goes through a small roof near the top with sketchy block below the roof.

Location 

Left of where the approach trail meets the crag about five minutes on the north face.

Protection 

Thin hands to fists, heavy on 3.0"-3.5" and a #4 camalot. 2 drilled angles with climbing rope for the anchor (bring replacement webbing).


Photos of Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) Slideshow Add Photo
What a beautiful line
What a beautiful line

Comments on Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Stephens
From: Carbondale, CO
Apr 25, 2012

This striking pitch is not only great fun, but features a cooling ventilation system that begins about 30 or 40 feet up. The sketchy block/flake is definitely not sound, but can be thoughtfully avoided. The climb is a longer-than-you-think walk left from where the approach trail reaches the cliff.
By WMcD
Apr 27, 2012

Huge fun. You can get down with a 70m and minor shenanigans.
By greg t
Oct 17, 2012

The sketchy blocks are quiet sketchy looking indeed. They also happen to be right before the crux, making the gear a little lower on the climb than some may like. They can be passed with some finesse, but use your head and dont belay underneath the climb. Other than that, this is one of the best handcracks at the creek.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 8, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

What a great pitch! Do be carefull with the avoidable looseness below the roof. Also at the top where the rock turns from splitter big hands to a questionable flake. I did not put any pro in this last 10' before the anchor. There is also a bit of looseness right before the anchor.

The crowds were gathered around MC's when we got to the base. Asked a guy if he knew how far left it was to this route. He said "We don't go to the left". What a mistake, this guys ego is causing him to miss one steller pitch.
By Ryan Huetter
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 25, 2014

The loose flake is gone. I carefully avoided it on lead, but it was moving easily when lightly touched, so we cleared the base and yanked the offending block out of there. It would have killed anyone at the base. Route remains at the same grade, same gear, now a whole lot safer.