UMC Route  5.6

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet FA:  brodhead and marsh? Submitted By:  slim on Sep 16, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

When looking at the Renaissance Slab, at approximately the center of the slab there is a very large, 3' thick flake that rests against the slab. The UMC Route climbs a nice crack a couple feet right of the left hand edge of the flake.

p1 (5.6, 100') Scramble up to the flake from the lower left hand side. Pull around to the right and climb the low angled crack via jamming, face climbing, and strange laybacking. Sling the top of the flake with a double length runner or your rope for the belay.

p2 (5.6, 190') I think the original pitch 2 went pretty much straight up and slightly right to a corner system. However, there is a huge burnt log up there and we chose to avoid it. Instead, climb left and up a nice slab for about 190 feet to an obvious opportunity for a gear belay. My partner placed 2 pieces on this pitch, both very questionable. If you climb this variation, consider it R or possibly X.

p3 (5.0, 160 feet) I diagonaled up and left to a very short chimney headwall, up and over to a gear belay. Easy climbing.

Walk off to the west, down a slightly bushy gully, or head left and possibly do a route on Sunshine Dome.

Protection 

Single set of cams and stoppers should suffice.