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For the first twenty feet of the route, climb steep bouldery moves up relatively good rock, using face holds and the occansional finger lock.
From here, the route continues to be steep, and larger holds appear to balance out the rapidly deteriorating rock quality and the various insects living in the crack. Finish the route by showering your belayer with granite pebbles and wafers while pulling into an awkward v-shaped slot that allows you to reach the anchors.
A knee bar at twenty feet provides a rest, and a no hands rest can be found slightly higher.
The steepness (overhanging 25 feet in 40 feet of climbing) and opening moves of this route are it's only real redeeming features. The fact that the Ruckman guide gives this route the same quality rating as many of the area's classics seems be mostly because one of the guide book authors was involved in the first ascent.
Park at the grist mill and thrash through scrub oak to get to the route. See the photo topo of the Eagle buttress for the exact location.
Don't expect to have to wait in line to get on this one.
Bring a double set of cams from tips-sized through .75 Camalot. Despite the short length of the route, the less than stellar rock quality encourages many placements. The Ruckman guide mentions two fixed pins that are no longer present.
Anchors are two decent looking button heads with homemade hangers, currently equalized with some rope and a quick link.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Aug 8, 2013
Not quite as bad as Ben makes is seem, but not by much. The rock quality is a bit gritty up high, although has likely cleaned up since '08, but the anchor is pretty bad. Those buttonheads have deteriorated a lot in the past 5 years, as well as the webbing. SIGN THIS ONE UP FOR NEW ANCHOR REPLACEMENT! 3 fixed nuts make the opening 15 foot crux a sport climb. Worthy of a burn or two.