Begin climbing in an obvious corner using stems and finger jams to a two bolt belay (5.9). "Step left climb directly up and through a large offwidth (5.10d)". Zach Orenczak, Fat Crack Country.
Northside of John's Tower. Scramble up a slab and traverse left (sketchy) till you reach the corner. There is not much to anchor the belayer in at this spot, so we chose to belay down on the lower ledges. This is also a good idea if you have dogs. Just to the right of the Unnamed 5.9 and Scarlet Begonias.
Small nuts and cams for the first 5.9 pitch. I did not climb the OW section, but it looks like you would need some really large gear.