Ultimate Finger Crack 5.11+ PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 165 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Tim Coats, Jim Haisley, John Mattson, 1985 |
| Submitted By: | markguycan on Apr 16, 2006 |
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A classic Dugald Bremner shot of Tim Coats repeati...
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Description splitter finger tips to small hands up a steep smooth wall.
Location in a side slot on the West side of the canyon upstream from Mexican Pocket & down from rope swing-swimming hole.
Protection 3-4 each of tcus, double #.75-#1, single #2 & #3camalot.
View of the UFC from it's base.
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Lisa on the UFC
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a second photo of Lisa on UFC
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The Knarz on the "Thank God Ledge" ;-)
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| Comments on Ultimate Finger Crack |
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By Seth Dyer
Dec 15, 2006
rating: 5.11
| This classic has great pro all the way.... I'd hesitate to give it a PG13 rating. Don't be shy, git out there and git on it!!! |
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 24, 2007
| I agree that the pro is great the whole way. Triples of yellow TCUs through 0.75 Camelot then double #2 Camelot and one #3 Camelot along with singles of small TCUs should sew it up fine. This is one of the finest cracks of its grade anywhere. |
By Larry Coats
Oct 27, 2007
| FA: Tim Coats & John Mattson, 1985. |
By Paul Davidson
Aug 14, 2008
| I will never forgive Tim for stealing this route.
I found it 1982, just before moving to Tucson.
I'm kidding (sort of.)
This is a beautiful area and one amazing crack. |
By tcskis
Feb 1, 2010
| First ascent- Tim Coats/Jim Haisley/John Mattson |
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Feb 3, 2010
rating: 5.11
| how can this be PG13? The gear is about as good as its going to get. Great climbing but sort of isolated. |
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 5, 2011
| GPS: 35.035693,-111.715664 |
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 10, 2012
| not PG-13, or PG. The gear is about as good as it gets. |
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