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The Ultimates/Mexican Pocket
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Brown Nosing T 
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Ultimate Finger Crack 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Tim Coats, Jim Haisley, John Mattson, 1985
Page Views: 4,301
Submitted By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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A classic Dugald Bremner shot of Tim Coats repeati...

Description 

splitter finger tips to small hands up a steep smooth wall.

Location 

in a side slot on the West side of the canyon upstream from Mexican Pocket & down from rope swing-swimming hole.

Protection 

3-4 each of tcus, double #.75-#1, single #2 & #3camalot.


Photos of Ultimate Finger Crack Slideshow Add Photo
a second photo of Lisa on UFC <br />
a second photo of Lisa on UFC
Lisa on the UFC <br />
Lisa on the UFC
almost done with the biz....
almost done with the biz....
the 2nd crux, going right from .5-.75
the 2nd crux, going right from .5-.75
View of the UFC from it's base.
View of the UFC from it's base.
the crux starts here
the crux starts here
The Knarz on the "Thank God Ledge" ;-)
The Knarz on the "Thank God Ledge" ;-)
this is the first THIRD.  seriously.  probably about 100 feet still to go...
this is the first THIRD. seriously. probably abo...

Comments on Ultimate Finger Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 6, 2013
By Seth Dyer
Dec 15, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This classic has great pro all the way.... I'd hesitate to give it a PG13 rating. Don't be shy, git out there and git on it!!!
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 24, 2007

I agree that the pro is great the whole way. Triples of yellow TCUs through 0.75 Camelot then double #2 Camelot and one #3 Camelot along with singles of small TCUs should sew it up fine. This is one of the finest cracks of its grade anywhere.
By Larry Coats
Oct 27, 2007

FA: Tim Coats & John Mattson, 1985.
By Paul Davidson
Aug 14, 2008

I will never forgive Tim for stealing this route.
I found it 1982, just before moving to Tucson.

I'm kidding (sort of.)

This is a beautiful area and one amazing crack.
By tcskis
Feb 1, 2010

First ascent- Tim Coats/Jim Haisley/John Mattson
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Feb 3, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

how can this be PG13? The gear is about as good as its going to get. Great climbing but sort of isolated.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 5, 2011

GPS: 35.035693,-111.715664
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 10, 2012

not PG-13, or PG. The gear is about as good as it gets.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 6, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

1- if you buy an 80 just for this line, it will be well spent. the middle mark is almost exactly at the anchors.

2- if a 40 meter pitch goes from splitter fingers to a rest ledge, to splitter ring locks to a little roof, past the roof on bomber locks & great feet, to 70 MORE feet of in-your-face crack with lots of hands and a couple pods (whew!), is it the greatest single sandstone pitch in NAZ?

3- triples from blue metolious to gold camalots, with an extra one or even two .75/black metolious pieces if you want to sew it up. runners on the first 2-4 pieces after the ringlocks above the roof.
By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Aug 5, 2013

Agreed. Not PG-13 or even PG.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 6, 2013

PG13 could have been for the hanging tree that was above the route.. which is there no more, last I heard.