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Ultimate Crack Climbing Destinations in the East
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By CCliffe
Aug 8, 2011
I currently climb in the White Mtns of New Hampshire and fiend for finger cracks.
Clipping an occasional bolt/piton along the way is fine - but spicy runouts are fun too.
I am looking for the 5.11 range but 10s are fine and I dont mind pushing for 12's.
Ive been to the Red and spent some time in the dacks (wikkid sweet).

Bottom line - I am looking for the top destinations in the East (anywhere).
Specific routes/areas that are somewhat well known plz.

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By JJNS
Aug 8, 2011
The New looks like it has some sweet cracks.

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By Nick Votto
Aug 8, 2011
Bolton, VT
Check out the Thorn Crack and Rose Crack (5.11 and 5.10) at Upper West Bolton in VT. Two of the best in New England if you haven't tried them already.

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By Jaysen Henderson
From White Plains, New York
Aug 8, 2011
on p13 or so of zodiac
haha dude check out the spiders web in keene valley, all it is is overhanging cracks. the best craig in the adirondacks. id make sure you get on TR and live free or die. if you want more info pm me. ive also read about the 5 star crack on cranberry lake, catatonic

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By Stu Pidaz
Aug 8, 2011
T-Wall.

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By Dan G0D5H411
From Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 9, 2011
Dan on Hurricane
+1 for the Spider's Web. Drop, Fly or Die is an excellent 11 and the rest of the wall is inundated with classics.

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By Sam Stephens
Aug 9, 2011
Top half of Melifluous
I'm a big fan of new river gorge cracks. Plenty to go around.

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By CCliffe
Aug 9, 2011
Yup i'm definitely a fan of the Web - probably my single favorite wall. It's only Entertainment, Fear and Loathing in KV, Drop Fly or Die are all super classics.

Keep the suggestions coming plz.

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By Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Aug 9, 2011
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
Can't believe nobody's mentioned Looking Glass (Safari Jive! Cornflake Crack!) or the Cereal Buttress at Rumbling Bald.
Also, I'll second (and third) the suggestions for the New and the T-Wall.

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By Joe Virtanen
From Asheville, NC
Aug 9, 2011
Pit BBQ
Nick Stayner wrote:
Can't believe nobody's mentioned Looking Glass (Safari Jive! Cornflake Crack!) or the Cereal Buttress at Rumbling Bald. Also, I'll second (and third) the suggestions for the New and the T-Wall.


I'll throw my weight behind Looking Glass as well. To add to the list, there's The Seal, Invisible Airwaves, Hyperbola, and the fun moderate cracks on the South Face.

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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Aug 9, 2011
Gunking
The Cereal Buttress at Rumbling Bald has some pretty nice wintertime cracks.

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By John Husky
Aug 26, 2011
Cannon cliff, though I don't climb as hard as you. 9's and 10's galore. Vertigo is a must. I'm a bit surprised someone calls the Rose and Thorn cracks top shelf in NE. Cool for VT but that is no huge compliment. They are super fun, no offense intended, but they are schist.

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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Sep 9, 2011
Yoda
Another vote for the New. Sport climbing gets all the hype, but there's plenty of great crack lines(many moderates).

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By Chad Wagner
Sep 9, 2011
me
The Fibrulator, RRG
Rock Wars, RRG
Goodstone, RRG
Return of Beane, RRG
Jack the Ripper, RRG thin!
Fallen Angel, RRG
All That Glitters, RRG
Melifolus, NRG
Burning Calves, NRG
These are just a few southeast classics. There are to many to list at T-Wall in Chattanooga. Same goes for the New.

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By Sam Stephens
Sep 9, 2011
Top half of Melifluous
Chad Wagner wrote:
The Fibrulator, RRG Rock Wars, RRG Goodstone, RRG Return of Beane, RRG Jack the Ripper, RRG thin! Fallen Angel, RRG All That Glitters, RRG Melifolus, NRG Burning Calves, NRG These are just a few southeast classics. There are to many to list at T-Wall in Chattanooga. Same goes for the New.


NRG:

Leave it to Jesus
Fantasy
Springboard
Triple Treat
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam
Voyeur Variation
Autumn Fire
Linear Encounters
Premarrital Bliss
Stuck In Another Dimension
New Yosemite
Four Sheets to the Wind
Rapscallion Blues
Handsome and Well Hung
Jaws
Marionette
Agent Orange
Gemini Cracks

There are tons more that I'm missing but all of those go down as 3 or 4 star routes

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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Sep 9, 2011
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.
Close to home, have you been to Green's or Owl's yet? Green's has the two pitch 12a Greenpeace and Owl's, Left Cliff has Brady Libby's really good one pitch 12c Crack of the Future, that is 2 routes over from the 11d finger crack, White Owl. I also recommend the 3 or 4 pitch Crack of the World 11c and Egg Cracker 10c. Both cliffs are well worth the ride out to get to them, with Owl's currently having more established pitches.

With all the rain we just got, Greenpeace is probably wet atm, but I am about to head out there now for a few days and can give an update when I get back.

Further afield, The New definitely has a ton of great crack climbing, and the sandstone there is much better for gear than other sandstone areas. I was usually down there for the sport climbing, but I remember running all the way back to the car for a rack so I could do a crack, it looke so good. I did follow my partner up a bunch of really enjoyable cracks there, some of which Sam listed. I'll add Black and Tan, and Mellifluous to the list, if I remember right.

I am not super enthused about the rock in the Dacks myself, but I haven't been to Spider's Web yet, which does look a lot better than what I have been on. I like the Dacks better for the mushroom picking than the climbing, but Spiders should be on any list of eastern crack aficionados.

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By nbrown
From western NC
Sep 9, 2011
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai
The new is probably the best and most concentrated crack destination in the east -- specifically the endless wall. I know you said you like finger cracks, but there are loads of cracks of every size, including OW... haha! I like T wall also, but I belive that Endless is a better destination, it's like several T wall's combined.

That said, there are some classics in NC for sure, but If you are a solid 5.11 climber you could probably have them all (mosty) climbed in just a few days. The north face of LG is great -- in addition to the standard stuff there are lots more cracks high on the wall (above the aid pitches) that hardly anyone ever climbs for various reasons (most folks crag at the base, etc.). Also, Rumbling Bald has some good stuff that is very worthwhile, but could easily be done in a day or so.

For what NC lacks in the crack dept, it more than makes up for in the spicy runout dept... since you mentioned that you enjoyed this too...

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By Peter Pitocchi
Sep 9, 2011
Pete belays 2nd pitch Little corner
I prefer trad but only leading up to 8+. I've been to Twall a few times and it's great--should I check out the New or would I do better back at Twall? I guess I'm asking if there is a concentration of easy to moderate trad at the New.

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By DaveB
Sep 9, 2011
Vitruvian Man (da Vinci)
There are several nice 5.8'ish crack climbs at the New. At that grade, most do not require pure sustained jamming technique (ie Indian Creek). Along with occasional jams, stemming, laybacks, and hand-holds are usually littered throughout.

The higher grades require more actual crack-climbing, though still offer the same flavor, just more technical, sustained, steeper, smaller/fewer face holds, etc.

The rock quality is great and most gear placement is secure.

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By Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Sep 13, 2011
The Daks has more cracks than anywhere else on the east coast, hands down. This is partly because it's just the biggest climbing area by a couple orders of magnitude, and also because of the geology of the area. Any of the uplift zones are vertically fractured, providing tons of crack crags.

Poke-O probably has 100 pitches of pure crack climbing from 5.8 to 5.11.
Spider's web has the highest concentration of steep splitters anywhere in the East.
Creature Wall and Tanager Face have lots of easier cracks on single-pitch cliffs.

There are at least 50 other crags with some crack climbing on them. Get the Lawyer book and start having fun!

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By P. Sully
Sep 13, 2011
@ Grayson Highlands somewhere up near Rhody Gap
The NRG and all the surrounding crags with its technicolor nutall sandstone is a crack climbing paradise. It seems the best quality cracks fall in the 10 - 11 range, as well as being the most plentiful.

The NRG does have a few quality 8 - 9 cracks, and a smattering of harder 11+ and up cracks as well.

Most cracks at the new are not pure splitters like you find on granite, but have face holds and roofs. Not too dissimilar to the gunks really.

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By ascender30
Sep 13, 2011
Seneca Rocks, West Virginia. PM me and I'll take a day or two to drag you up some cracks there.

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By germsauce
Sep 14, 2011
Hippos kill people
the west

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By Sam Stephens
Sep 14, 2011
Top half of Melifluous
M Sprague wrote:
I'll add Black and Tan, and Mellifluous to the list, if I remember right.


Can't believe I forgot those...

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By Ben F
From Benfield, Kolorado
Sep 14, 2011
Cornflake Crack at Looking Glass, previously mentioned is the best climb at its grade or lower at any non-secret climbing area from WV south - when it's dry. I'll have to check-out some of those Daks cracks one day.

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Sep 14, 2011
Stoked...
Cat Crack in CT... East Peak

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